Sunday, January 3, 2016

January 03, 2016 - And then the rain came back.

Last day of my holiday today, fun is over, but it was nice while it lasted.
The last 2 weeks I was able to climb every day, even this morning in between rain showers with a constant light drizzle, so I can't complain at all.
My body however is complaining and begging for some rest. My left knee hurts, my right elbow, my back, and my fingers are shouting out their need for some new skin.
Therefore I'm not complaining that on my last day of holiday the rain came back, first with a light drizzle, at the moment heavily, and it will last for some days.
It will be good for the boulders too! The forest has seen a lot of visitors during the Christmas holidays and the holds of most popular boulders are covered with chalk. All this can be washed off again now thanks to the rain, making place for some mildly renewed friction.

This morning I went to out for about an hour, in between and during the drizzle showers to look for some dry rock.
The higher grounds of Rocher de la Reine didn't offer any dry boulders, so I went down to Bois Rond, hoping that the drizzle wasn't able to penetrate through the trees too much yet.
Even though it doesn't feel like it, it is Winter, so the leafless trees didn't shelter the lower ground, so also there, all wet.
I then looked for something with as less holds as possible. Fewer holds equals fewer wet holds to use.

"La Quille" is on a boulder with a small roof and it has a direct dyno version starting more to the right onto it. I had seen it once in a video and it looked nice so I looked for it.
It can be found easily in between the boulder with "Lucky Luke" and the one with "Spider Bloc". A barely 2m high boulder with the top covered in those typical Font style wave-like features. Nice!
On bleau.info they say that the direct dyno version from where I start is approximately 7A/7B (has been changed now). I think it's more like a soft 7A at most and I will not be far from it.
I had to dry off the top where you jump to, and even still being humid, I made the jump from the first go but fell off the mantle. The mantle is the most difficult about the problem, especially on a wet boulder. I am sorry for the unethical exit, but those who know my style know that ethics can sometimes be far away when determination to get on top sets in.

Fontainebleau - Bois Rond - La Quille (droite direct) 7A


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