Saturday, January 16, 2016

January 16, 2016 - Flies in the middle of Winter.

You can say that Winter has finally arrived.
Temperatures were well below 0°C during the night and it lasted until late in the morning. When it's dry enough, this can provide excellent conditions.
The problem is that it is not that dry these last days. One needs to look for the dry boulders, and luckily we don't have to look far.

There have been some new openings lately in J.A. Martin, out of which one of them is "Lénine j'Arrête". An eliminate variation of "Le Toit du Ninja Blanc".
It dries extremely quick out there up on the hill and in the open, so this was my first choice for today.
It sitstarts left and exits directly with a mantle on slopers, not allowed to use the right arete.
With excellent conditions it will be about 6C+, but replace excellent with "good" or "average" and it easily becomes 7A. Today it's Winter time and dry up there, so it was more like a 6C+.

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - Lénine j'Arrête 6C+(7A)




After that I gave "L'Etrave" some tries, where I met Jean-Pierre Roudneff and a friend of him.
They were also there to check out some of the new boulders. 
It seems that "Lénine j'Arrête" might be morpho for the smaller among us.
I wished Jean-Pierre and his friend good luck and proceeded to Beauvais Nainville where I had agreed to team up with Pieter, Alberto and Francis. They arrived yesterday evening and were only there for the day.

After warming up, I repeated "L'Anthracite" again and Pieter followed soon after me.
We both also did some tries in the sitstart of "L'Anthracite". I saw Pieter coming out of it at one move from the topout and I had to give up because the holds became too greasy.
Those who climb with Pieter probably can confirm that he does have greasy fingers. Damn your fingers Pieter :-))

Now that I wasn't alone in the area, we decided to try "La Mouche", a not so difficult 7A, but really expo! Not something you want to try alone by yourself, especially when you know that there is a pretty morpho move in it, where (in my case) you have to go to with a dynamic move.
I was glad to bag that one in, and so was Pieter when he did it soon after me.
I felt the adrenaline rush through my veins for minutes after the ascent!

Fontainebleau - Beauvais Nainville - La Mouche 7A



It was then near 17h, the sun was going down and the guys still had a long drive ahead of them.
I was home 20 minutes later ...

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