I was nervous and had been already since yesterday evening as I had been wanting to try this highball for years, but never got to it. It definitely wasn't one that I would start trying alone. Now we were four of us, with a total of eight crashpads. Still, I was nervous because I had the feeling that it had to be done today as the occasion to go back for it wouldn't be an easy one. On top of that, when watching some videos available online, it appeared that the crux of the problem was near the top of the boulder, at considerable height.
There was a good vibe surrounding us, and it soon made me feel more relaxed, but didn't take away a sense of pressure when I made my first attempt, where I already fell off at the first part, not even having taken the right arete yet. On my second attempt, I went for the right arete, but just missed it and it made me a bit more nervous again. Luckily, on my third attempt, I was able to get the right arete, where you reach a point where you can breathe and think about what to do next. With barely any footholds, the possibilities were either very limited or endless depending on how you look at it. We discussed possibilities and tried something slightly different each time, even though it were sometimes but minor details. Luckily, by that time, I could reach the right arete in the first part every time.
It was maybe my fifth or sixth attempt where I followed what my body wanted to do, turning out to be David Evrard's method, and suddenly I was at the crux feeling a possibility. I could hear the others cheering me up and motivating me and slowly I was getting higher and closer to the top, which is a jug hold. The kind that you never let go once you have it. Finally, I could see the jug being withing reach, and motivated by the others cheers, I went for it, grabbed it and shouted out my relief. Having the jug that I wouldn't let go anymore, I released my right hand and gladly took the swing to the left with no more fear of falling, I knew I was there and that I made it. I was still alive and couldn't feel more like it.
Releasing the right hand and taking the small swing.
Fontainebleau - Eléphant Ouest - Da Capo 7C(7B+)
Barely ten minutes later, Victor had his own moment and shout out of relief, when he as well topped this beauty.
Six days of climbing in a row had taken a toll on Olaf, but he tried anyway, getting extremely close to getting the right arete. Even though his attempts were good, I felt sorry that I couldn't pass him on some of my adrenalin, giving him the required energy. I wouldn't mind being there just for him when he wants to try it again and needs a spot and some extra crashpads.
Six days of climbing in a row had taken a toll on Olaf, but he tried anyway, getting extremely close to getting the right arete. Even though his attempts were good, I felt sorry that I couldn't pass him on some of my adrenalin, giving him the required energy. I wouldn't mind being there just for him when he wants to try it again and needs a spot and some extra crashpads.
Looking down from the top of "Da Capo".
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