May 07, 2024 - Crimp activated.

A few weeks ago I was listening to the Sticky Tips podcast interviewing Rob Denayer about projecting "Alphane", the famous 9A boulder, and in the interview, Rob used an expression that perfectly describes the moment a small crimp becomes useful and when you can really start pulling on it. He used the expression 'activating a crimp', and I just found that the perfect description.
This afternoon, Olaf (Deppe) wanted to try "La Mouche" in Cuisinière Crête Sud, and even though I had done it already eight years ago, in August 2016, I gladly joined him with the intention to repeat it and try a slightly harder game on it named "Olé".
My warmup consisted of doing the first move wrong, trying the hardest move two or three times and then immediately after, sending "La Mouche" with relative ease. Even after eight years, you sometimes can benefit from muscle memory. 
I then worked in "Olé", did all the moves of it, but couldn't get the very crimp activated anymore. As I'm meeting up with Victor (Burger) tomorrow to try something harder, I wanted to preserve some skin and decided to repeat "La Mouche" once again just to have another video of it. I repeated it again on my first try. It felt like I could do this nearly every time. As long as the crimp gets activated.

Fontainebleau - Cuisinière Crête Sud - La Mouche 7B+(7B)