I don't celebrate new year's eve anymore since a long time and often find myself alone at home while my wife and kids are off to celebrate at friends' houses. I do wish for them to have fun and enjoy, bus as far as myself concerned, I prefer to stay home and stay within my normal routine of going to bed between 22h and 22h30. It allows me to be in good shape the next day and actually do something without feeling tired and wanting to waste my time yawning on the couch.
As expected, I was up as usual this morning and with the sun being out, I was more than ready to go for a climb. I went to Apremont Bizons and warmed up on the relatively new "La Longue Jeunesse", which I did on my second attempt.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Bizons - La Longue Jeunesse 7A
The conditions were very good and the rock was quite sticky, which was a big advantage on the slopey "Deep Grip", on the same boulder and starting the same as "La Longue Jeunesse", but exiting directly on slopers. It only took me five minutes to work out the top part and sent it on my second go from the start. A nice problem, but didn't feel harder than soft 7B in my opinion. Likely, the good conditions had something to do with it.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Bizons - Deep Grip 7B+
Finally, I had a good session on "Border Lyme", being able to work out a method, which was quite complicated. Unfortunately, the process had worn me out and I fell off the last move a few times when coming from the start. A short, but heavy rain shower then put an end to the session.
Great send, Filip.
ReplyDeleteInteresing method.
I did it with Toe-hook right.
I would be curious to know what you think about these two first ascents.
https://bleau.info/cassepotgrises/311495.html
and
https://bleau.info/demoiselles/311496.html
Best regards,
Theo
Thanks Theo!
ReplyDeleteI definitely would like to try the one in Roches Grises soon, looks pretty interesting!
It's not very clear when looking at the picture and the drawn line, from which small boulder it starts. I assume it sits on the smallest boulder on the left and that it's not allowed for the feet, or is it ?