Wednesday, October 7, 2020

October 07, 2020 - Comprecious.

Wednesday evening, so some free time for a quick climb. It had been raining a lot, but luckily, just for today and tomorrow, it was forecasted to be dry. The clouds had made space for the sun to peak from time to time and there was a good breeze. A perfect moment to go try some of the new boulders in Justice de Noisy right next door.
Last weekend I did climb, but the conditions were far from good and occasional local rain showers made it even worse. On Sunday morning, I came close to finishing "Un Autre Monde" but the bad sloper right hand felt humid with slippery tiny grains of sand that didn't want to come off. 
This evening, the conditions were much better though and after a short warmup in the form of two failed attempts in "Un Autre Monde", I found the friction and struggled my way to the top. Quite morpho, but great compression that fits my style.
Opened by Tony Fouchereau and noted as 7C, but subject to downgrade depending on one's arm span.
(Boulder 73 on the topo: https://bleau.info/topos/topo1228.html)


Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Un Autre Monde 7C



Having done "Un Autre Monde" much quicker than I expected, I used the occasion to try "Le Léopard des Neiges" about 100m away, above "Les Tuniques Bleues". I had already inspected the small boulder a couple of times, but it was either way too hot, or wet. Unlike now, when it felt near perfect.
Another boulder with some great compression, just the way I like it. Not convenient, but I had fun, despite the swearing, which is part of the fun anyway.
(Boulder 53 on the topo: https://bleau.info/topos/topo1228.html)

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Le Léopard des Neiges 7B+

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