Thursday, August 27, 2020

August 27, 2020 - Devils at work.

 Took some time after work to for a climb with Bram (Honorez) and had a good and fun time in Franchard Sablons Carriers.
I wanted to try the recently opened "Devil's Plaything" as it seems to fit my style.
First did a fairly quick ascent of the crouching start.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons Carriers - Devil's Plaything (accroupi) 7A




Followed by the real sitstart, which basically only adds one move, but a very hard one. At least for me.
Bram showed that the taller climbers can start with a heelhook far left while still sitting on the ground and using the same starting holds. It allowed him to do the first move almost statically.
I might have long arms, but my legs were way too short and I had to start with my left foot way to the right, making the first move very violent and still very reachy.
I thought at first that it seemed strange how only one move could add more than a grade, but I must admit that it definitely comes close to it.
Nice boulder!

Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons Carriers - Devil's Plaything 7B+


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