Friday, May 15, 2020

May 15, 2020 - Two months, one kilometre and four ticks later.

For two months we were ordered to be quarantined, but were allowed to go out for necessary shopping after completing a document stating the reason why one was out. Outdoor physical activities were allowed, as long as they were practiced within a one kilometre perimeter from home. The forests were closed down by the ONF though, but luckily from where I live, the privately owned forests of La Charbonnière, La Renardière and Le Groison are all well within my 1km perimeter and not allowed to be closed down by the ONF.
It became quickly obvious for mountain bikers, hikers and even some climbers from the village, like me, to use these parts of the forest as their local outdoor playgrounds, as long as the land owners didn't complain, which they didn't. One of them is a climber by the way.
For two months, whenever I could, I hiked though these dense forests, looking for new boulders and lots of brushing and cleaning them; mostly completely alone, sometimes with the help of my kids. I was amazed by the amount of boulders that had remained hidden well within my allowed area. I even took the time to create a small topo; not detailed, but enough to locate the boulders. Some of them, I even consider as true hidden gems.
Grades are going from 2 up to 7B+, although, be aware that the grading was merely an indication of the moment and is subject to be changed by repeaters. Time will tell.

Location of the boulders. 2, 5 and 16 were already known and published, but added as a reference.

Some of the boulders have several problems and/or variations on them, and some lines are still a project, but for all care, free for all to try and claim a first ascent. As long as you keep the area clean and respect the environment.
I will now sum up the boulders in the order that I cleaned them and opened the first problems. There are a few of them that are very easy, but in the end it was a nice journey of discovery for myself and my kids.

BOULDER 4
As boulder 5, the one with "Shogun" and "Ronin" was already known, I was familiar with that part of the small forest and started my cleaning journey there by cleaning boulder 4. Slightly above and about 30m to the right of "Shogun".
Opened a total of 4 problems, going from about 6B up to 7A+, maybe 7B.

Before cleaning.

After.

"Dans le Périmètre" 6B(6B+)

"Dans le Périmètre (droite)" 6C(6C+)

"Moins d'Un Kilomètre" 7A(7A+)

"Moins d'Un Kilomètre (rallongé)" 7A+(7B)

"Moins d'Un Kilomètre" 7A+(7B) continued

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Dans le Périmètre 6B(6B+)



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Dans le Périmètre (droite) 6C(6C+)



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Moins d'Un Kilomètre 7A(7A+)



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Moins d'Un Kilomètre (rallongé) 7A+(7B)



The following boulders can be found along or close to the yellow path on the topo. The obvious path that enters the forest is almost directly behind a small company called "TLS Etiquettes", look it up for your reference if needed.

BOULDER 13
After about 200m down the path after entering the forest, the huge boulder can be seen at about 50m on the left of the path.
I stood in awe when I walked around what seemingly looked like a small boulder covered with a thick layer of moss. With a big sort of pit in front of it, it turned out to be a huge overhang with several lines waiting to be opened.
While cleaning, I was stuck with only one obvious in mind, and ended up opening only that one, even though there are possibilities to open some more variations.
Boulder 13, "Les Quarante Haines" is one of the gems on the topo.

Before.

During.

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Les Quarante Haines 7B



BOULDER 12
About 50m past "Les Quarante Haines", the arete with "Arête au Confinement!" looks easy, but didn't feel as it looked. 
Not as nice as the previous but still worth the visit if you ask me.

"Arête au Confinement!" 7A+

"Arête au Confinement" 7A+ continued


Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Arête au Confinement 7A+



BOULDER 15
Boulder 13 was not cleaned by me, nor the problem opened by myself and I do not claim a first ascent of it.
It was a fellow villager who saw me cleaning boulders and he told me about a boulder close to his house and that there was chalk on it. Being a climber himself, he said that he had tried it with some friends and that it might be around 7A.
The next day, I found the boulder and was a bit sad that I flashed the line that my fellow villager told me about. It was a nice boulder and again a beautiful setting.
For the time being, until more information arises about the boulder, I named it "Pas à Moi", because it is not mine.

"Pas à Moi" 7A(6C)


Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Pas à Moi 7A(6C)



BOULDER 11
Small boulder with an easy problem. Not the nicest problem, but I cleaned the boulder and liked its shape.
"Titrou" starts with both hands in a pocket in the roof and the feet in the back.

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Titrou 5C(6A)



BOULDER 10
This low boulder has some very easy children slabs, a traverse a game and an open project with an extremely hard topout by convention.

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Câlin Confiné 5C(6A)



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - La Balade des Confinés 6C(7A)



BOULDER 14
I found boulder 14 on my way back from "Pas à Moi". Located right next to an obvious path through the forest.
Covered with moss and couldn't resist imagining lines.
Ended up opening only two problems, using the same sitstart, because I had found already more boulders to clean in the meantime.

Before.

"Backyard Lockdown" 7A+

"Backyard Lockdown (gauche)" 7A

The first line though, "La Fissure à Noah" was opened by my youngest son, at 7 years old.

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - La Fissure à Noah 3+



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Backyard Lockdown 7A+



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Backyard Lockdown (gauche) 7A



BOULDER 7
I found boulder 7 almost by coincidence. Covered with moss, it was hardly visible through the small trees there, even at only 20m from the path. Located at only a few meters from the fence of someone's garden, discretion is advised.

Before.

"Le Père Est Maître (assis)" 6C+

"Le Fils Est Sûr (gauche assis)" 6A(6B)

"À Vue de Nez" 7A

"À Vue de Nez (gauche)" 6C


Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Le Père Est Maître (assis) 6C+



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Le Fils Est Sûr (gauche assis) 6A(6B)



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - À Vue de Nez 7A



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - À Vue de Nez (gauche) 6C



BOULDER 3
This time, on the on expedition through another part of the forest, but still within my 1km radius, I went direction the already known boulder 2, with "Beauty Full".
On my way, at only about 100m from the graveled road, I stumbled upon a floating boulder where I imagined a start from in a pit between the boulders it was resting on, and started cleaning to free "Confinîle Flottante". Little gem I would say.

After cleaning.

"Confinîle Flottante" 6C(6B)

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Confinîle Flottante 6C(6B)



BOULDER 1
About 250m deeper down in the dense forest, I found another chaos of boulder with still quite some boulders that I already started cleaning, but this was near the end of the lockdown and I still had other easier reachable boulders that I prepared elsewhere, but ended up opening another gem. I literally said "Ouf!" when I discovered the boulder of "Confinouf!".

"Confinouf!" before cleaning.

After cleaning.

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Confinouf! 7B

 

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Confinouf! (assis) 7B+



BOULDER 6
Back to the previous sector, I had noticed a small cutout in on old quarry, and it attracted me, so I went ahead, cleaned it and opened some games.

After cleaning "Arête de Carrière".

1. "Arête de Carrière" 6B+ (exit left of the arete with a big hold on the left)
2. "Arête de Carrière (direct)" 6C  (exit direct and left of the arete without the big hold)
3. "Arête de Carrière (droite)" 6B (exit right of the arete)

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Arête de Carrière 6B+



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Arête de Carrière (droite) 6B



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Arête de Carrière (direct) 6C



BOULDER 8
Small boulder of which I didn't know what to expect, but it looked fun.

"Jouet de Bloc" 5C(6A)

Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Jouet de Bloc 5C(6A)



BOULDER 9
The lockdown was already over when I opened "Déconfinement" but as I had already spent quite some time cleaning this one, right next to the path, I came back to finish what I had in mind for it.

Green: "Déconfinement"  6C+(7A) (sitstart with left hand on low undercling and right hand on the arete; finish right)
Blue: "Déconfinement (gauche)" 7A(7A+) (sitstart left with slopey crimp, traverse to the right with crimps; exit in "Déconfinement")


Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Déconfinement 6C+(7A)



Fontainebleau - La Charbonnière - Déconfinement (gauche) 7A(7A+)



Got me four ticks in those two months. Nasty buggers!

It took me several evenings to create the topo and this whole long post, so in the meantime, early this evening I made a fairly quick repetition of "Vétille" in Gorge aux Châts Est.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts Est - Vétille 7A(7A+)



UPDATE May 17, 2020:
The line "Pas à Moi" on boulder 15 on the topo of La Charbonnière, was opened by David Evrard; originally with a sitstart.
David has opened much more variations, that can be seen his video on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/326997026

4 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  2. Hey Filip, leuk om weer iets van jou te lezen. Ik kan niet wachten om je boulders te proberen eens we weer mogen reizen. Ik heb hier rond Innsbruck ook een paar mooie boulders gepoetst de laatste weken. En nog proficiat met Hallelujah! Groetjes C

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  3. Salut,
    Bravo pour tout ce travail.
    Tu as vu 4 tiques ou bien été piqué par 4 tiques ?
    (Ca me fait un peur peur ces tiques et la maladie associée).

    ReplyDelete
  4. Bien joué Filip !
    En début de conf j'avais failli te suggérer de mettre un coup de neuf sur Oncy
    Mais t'as trouvé + près
    Y'en a qui ont l'air cool et me tentent bien - en + tu t'es mis aux travs ;)
    Pas à toi je pense que c'est David

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