Sunday, November 18, 2018

November 18, 2018 - Dancing with angels.

It was freezing cold this morning, but after doing some household and cleaning, the sun had warmed up the air to an enjoyable 6°C, on top of that, the wind, even if mild, came from the East, which usually means dry air.
My fingers were tired from yesterday, but as always, of course I couldn't withstand the call of the forest, luring me in like singing mermaids on the Lorelei.
I decided to go back to Rocher du Guetteur and see what I could make of "Énergie d'Activation (direct)". A version that Pieter and I had been trying last time, but didn't get far.

The conditions were much better than last time and I was able to work out a method to comfortably take the high vertical crimp left hand and touch the tiny sharp one with the right. From there it's only one, but again hard, move to the top of the boulder.

It was during one of my longer breaks in between tries, that I decided to go see if the holds under the roof of "Backdraft" were dry. Last time, with Pieter, they were humid and we didn't want to risk breaking any of them.
To my surprise, they were perfectly dry and I decided to move over to that boulder.
On that one, I started with "Les Anges Dansent", which I flashed, albeit with a small portion of luck.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Guetteur - Les Anges Dansent 7A




It took me a while before I found a working method for "Les Anges Dansent (gauche)", the left exit, and even was able to do it two overlapping parts, but I had ran out of energy and had no choice but to let it have this dance for now.

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