November 17, 2018 - C'est chique.

The whole week was foggy, rainy and humid all the time, but as I had to work anyway, I didn't care too much.
The weather was supposed to clear up yesterday afternoon, so I took a few hours off to go climbing.
It didn't clear up though, and it remained foggy and humid all day.
Eager to climb, I went to the isolated boulder of "Shikantaza", knowing that at least the lower part stays dry in the rain. I knew that because I worked that part out last weekend when it was raining. It probably was the only dry piece of boulder around.
When I arrived at the boulder yesterday late afternoon, I wasn't alone. Apparently Kaddi (Lehmann), Scott (Noy) and a friend of theirs, had found their way to it too.
I was able to work out all the moves, but as it started to get dark and the conditions were becoming more and more humid, I decided to come back for it soon when the air would be dryer.

This morning started grey, but there was nearly no fog and the mild ENE wind had dried the streets outside, a good sign.
I waited for a bit, but as soon as the sun came through, around 10h, I set off and immediately went back to "Shikantaza", knowing that it would be nicely drying in the sun.
I was alone when I arrived and warmed up by doing the standing start a few times and felt that the conditions were near perfect.
It felt great when I was able to grab the jug, because from there I knew that wouldn't fall off anymore as long as I kept focussed.
You need strong fingers for "Shikantaza" and it is graded like most boulders opened by David Evrard, hard! Might as well be 7B+ if you ask me.

Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - Shikantaza 7B+(7B)

In the meantime, I was joined by two French climbers, Seb and Yo (not sure of this spelled correctly), who did "Shikantaza" respectively on their second and third attempts. Strong fingers, but maybe the beta that they got from me had helped.

I was glad that they were there, because being three of us with several crashpads, we moved over to the boulder "Lalaland" to try the very exposed but beautiful "Yin Yang". The one that I didn't dare to try when I did "Lalaland" next to it.

Thanks to Seb and Yo for the extra pads and the spotting. Glad to have finally tried this line and make it to the end.

Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - Yin Yang 7A