Friday, November 2, 2018

November 02, 2018 - Morale boost.

It's nice to have a long weekend, but yesterday, it started with not so good morale, climbing wise at least. Luckily, the good company of Pieter, who arrived last Saturday already for a short vacation, made up for it.
Looking at the weather forecast yesterday, we knew we only had the morning to climb before it would start to rain again.
Knowing that the beautiful boulder with "Onde Sensuelle" in Apremont Mare aux Biches would dry quickly after the rain from the night before, it didn't take much to convince Pieter to go there.
I was delighted because I have been wanting to try that beauty already since my first visit more than two years ago.

"Onde Sensuelle" really does justice to its name, and is visually simply one of the most beautiful boulders I have ever seen in the forest. The line however, is severely exposed and I had never dared trying it on my own. It was frustrating to stand there in front of that magnificent boulder and not being able to let myself go on it.
After a while of working out every move separately and building up confidence, we finally managed to do every move and I even climbed the problem in two overlapping parts.
Sending it from the start was something else though. After having spent so much energy already in working out the moves and being afraid to fall at first instance, we got shut down a couple of times on the very last move before reaching the final jug.
I felt really bad having to leave it unfinished, but we will definitely come back soon and at least Pieter took a nice picture of it.

The beautiful "Onde Sensuelle".

Today, the weather was forecasted to be very sunny, started with a dense fog and everything was still soaking wet from the rain that lasted until late last night.
There was practically no wind anymore so Pieter and Alberto, who arrived late last night, agreed that the area of Maunoury would be one of the better chances to find dry boulders. Especially in the sunny sector with the very nice "Oasis" of which I was keen on trying the sitstart.

After a small detour, we feared the worst when we saw most boulders still wet, but that feeling changed when we noticed that the sunnier sectors and the boulders that already caught some sun, were dying quickly.
We had to wait a bit for the slopers of "Oasis" to dry, but after barely twenty of minutes of walking around and scouting for other dry boulders, they looked to be in good condition.
How good, was shown by the fact that I repeated the standing start of "Oasis" on my first attempt and as the very first boulder I climbed on today. That could as a warmup and certainly boosted up my morale.
Pieter needed some more tries, but impressed by topping out with a dynamic move!
My morale was boosted even more when I soon after did the sitstart, "Oasis Oasis / Oasis (assis)".

Fontainebleau - Maunoury - Oasis Oasis / Oasis (assis) 7B+




We finished our projects up there just in time, because in the meantime, several other groups of climbers were eager to give that beauty a try.

We joined Alberto at the boulder of "Movement Activated", where he was trying "Envergure", red n°11. The crack near the top was humid and gave him a really hard time.
I  only needed a few tries to repeat "Movement Activated (droite)", followed by Pieter who again impressed with a real dyno this time!
Nearly immediately after, I showed Alberto the 'long arm' method of "Envergure" and quite easily did its sitstart.

Fontainebleau - Maunoury - Envergure (assis) 7A




To finish the good session, I showed Pieter how I had done "L'Oeil de Boîte dans l'Épaule (droite)" by repeating it, but Pieter was convinced about his own method and topped it out not long after.
It was a good session that really boosted up my morale after yesterday's defeat.

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