My idea to try the crux move of "Djembé" in Côtes de Courances at 8h in the morning wasn't the best one, because I immediately felt that I was not going to get that bidoigt pocket while feeling still so stiff.
The motivation was there, but I wisely moved on to Montrouget to try "Grottesque" instead, knowing that it is facing North-West. One of the reasons why I never found the holds under the cave in dry condition.
I tried "Grottesque" nearly every time I visited the small area, but by the time it started to become difficult, my fingers felt as slippery as after eating a salami barehanded in hot weather.
It might sound strange, but this morning at 9h15 with already 27°C, the conditions in the cave were near perfect. Those for the crux moves coming up the wall were not though.
I took a couple of hard falls, but finally, at 9h45 and 28°C in the shade, topped it out.
Fontainebleau - Montrouget - Grottesque 7A+
By the time I arrived back at the car, it was already 30°C and the worst was still to come.
Perfect conditions for staying inside, do some cleaning and take a refreshing dip in the river in Grez-sur-Loing afterwards.
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