Monday, November 27, 2017

November 27, 2017 - Conditional luck.

I was away last weekend and I was disappointed to see that everything was wet when I arrived back home late yesterday evening.
With still one week of holiday left, I was hoping for good conditions.
This morning, it looked more or less dry and there was no fog, but a freezing cold mild wind, which was a good sign.
I got the feeling that I might be lucky today, and left to Buthiers Piscine with my mind set on "Dosage".

Upon arrival, I immediately noticed the dry state of the boulders and with a temperature of a mere 4°C, the conditions were close to perfect.
I only needed four attempts to get into the good position for the far move to the pocket that looked way too far. Still, I went for it, stretched out and grabbed it. Now I had to stay calm to finish it off.
I didn't know what to do at first, but remembered a pocket high up right.
It was barely, but I could reach it and climb on to the top.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Piscine - Dosage 7C




Before meeting up with Stef (Jacobs) again in Franchard, I made a quite quick ascent of the nearby "Insistance", taking the advantage of the good friction on the bad slopers on the top of it.
Even with such good conditions, sometimes extra cleaning is required.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Piscine - Insistance 7A(7A+)




I could see "Les Monos", in the Buthiers Tennis sector, from where the car was parked, and couldn't resist trying to repeat it for the video.
I needed quite some time for it, when I did it back in 2013, but now it went from my first attempt.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Tennis - Les Monos 7A




Stef had told me on the phone that he wanted to try "Boule de Nerfs" in Franchard Isatis, which gave me the occasion to finally try "Alta" right next to it.

I arrived at "Alta" before Stef and didn't wait to give it some test tries already.
I used the beta that I remembered seeing on a video on bleau.info and already after my first attempt, I felt that this could be something for me.
When Stef arrived about five minutes later, I wanted to show him the method I was trying and suddenly, beyond all expectations, topped it out after a total of a handful of tries.
The conditions were amazing!

Fontainebleau - Franchard Isatis - Alta 7C




While Stef was preparing to start in "Boule de Nerfs", I used the occasion to quickly repeat it for the video.
It went down on my second attempt, just like the first time when I did it in 2011.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Isatis - Boule de Nerfs 7A+(7A)




Stef came really close to sending "Boule de Nerfs" and even fell off at the last move, but he will have to come back for it as he had to drive back home to Belgium.
He didn't mind though as he did "L'Angle Ben's" the day before.

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