Yesterday, I agreed to join them going to Cassepot where Stef wanted to try "Double Axel" in Roches Grises and "Nicotine" in Roches Oranges.
I didn't mind trying to repeat "Double Axel" again, and I hadn't done "Nicotine" yet, so I was in the game.
I was able to repeat "Double Axel" after a handful of tries and took a short break while Stef slowly but steadily made good progress.
He threw in the towel though, but we knew that we could stop here again on the way back and continued up the hill to "Nicotine".
It's a straight up wall with barely holds on it, opened by crimp master Philippe Le Denmat, with a tiny razor sharp crimp for the right hand.
It almost comes down to how much pain you are willing to endure to make it to the top.
With only seven registered repetitions, including mine, not many have felt like it, if they could reach of course. It is quite morpho.
Painful, but very nice! It was a good thing for my fingers that it only took three tries!
Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Oranges - Nicotine 7A+(7A)
While Stef worked a bit longer in "Nicotine", I started trying "Opportunity" on the nearby boulder of "Get On Up".
"Opportunity" starts deep under the roof with the left hand on the pedestal, then you have to make some annoying moves with foot locks for both feet, trying not to touch a small rock underneath your back, all quite morpho too, until you reach the start of "Get On Up" and exit straight above with some bad sloper sidepull's.
I managed to work out the sequence into the start of "Get On Up" quite fast, but it felt like annoying fiddling around.
It was when I started working out the second sequence, from the start of "Get On Up" and the exit above, that I quite liked this shortened version of "Opportunity" and decided to make a video of that sequence only.
That sequence alone took me at least half an hour to work out and is very hard on itself, much harder than the first sequence of the lower start.
I only noticed it at home when I wanted to export the video, that the battery of the camera was completely out of energy.
Luckily it had still captured the most important part. I should have played on the lottery today!
"Opportunity" starts deep under the roof with the left hand on the pedestal, then you have to make some annoying moves with foot locks for both feet, trying not to touch a small rock underneath your back, all quite morpho too, until you reach the start of "Get On Up" and exit straight above with some bad sloper sidepull's.
I managed to work out the sequence into the start of "Get On Up" quite fast, but it felt like annoying fiddling around.
It was when I started working out the second sequence, from the start of "Get On Up" and the exit above, that I quite liked this shortened version of "Opportunity" and decided to make a video of that sequence only.
That sequence alone took me at least half an hour to work out and is very hard on itself, much harder than the first sequence of the lower start.
I only noticed it at home when I wanted to export the video, that the battery of the camera was completely out of energy.
Luckily it had still captured the most important part. I should have played on the lottery today!
Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Oranges - Opportunity (raccourci) 7B(7B+)
Stef had started working in "Spirit of Cadeau" in the meantime, but after many attempts, he also was running out of energy and we made our way back to "Double Axel" down the hill.
The walk down served as a good rest, because while Stef was making very good progress in "Double Axel" again, I was able to do a quick repeat of its sitstart "Triple Axel".
I only needed a handful of tries, but they were enough to leave me out of energy again.
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