Wednesday, November 22, 2017

November 22, 2017 - Immortal.

When you think about it, we are all becoming immortal in some way and all that thanks to the internet.
Facebook, Twitter, Snapchat, etc..., even this blog all contribute to our immortal presence throughout the world.
Traces of all of the above will be kept and cached somewhere as long as the internet exists.
But, anyway, I'm only mentioning that because I finally did "L'Immortel" today and thought the subject of immortality would fit with it.

Having a holiday, and as there's no school vacation, I thought it would be a good idea to go to Cuvier today.
The weather was announced to be sunny all day, so already at 9h in the morning, I started my warmup to profit from probably the best conditions of the day. I wanted to try "La Bérézina", so I needed them.

I warmed up having fun with the good old tree in front of "Le Carnage"...


And in "Coton Tige"...

Fontainebleau - Cuvier - Coton Tige 7A(6C+)




I spent over an hour trying "La Bérézina", and even though the conditions were looking good, the friction wasn't that good, it wasn't sticky enough.
I could easily reach the first sloper, but as soon as I applied pressure on it, I started slipping. It was quite frustrating.

Stef (Jacobs) suddenly turned up and I showed him where to find "La Gaule", of which I gave the sitstart some good tries.
I could get passed the start of the standing start, but the shady left side of the boulder didn't stick enough to do some valuable tries.

Looking for better conditions, I walked to Cuvier Ouest on the top of the hill, where the boulders catch more wind.
The conditions were indeed much better there and once again, I definitely wanted to try "L'Immortel".
Probably my tenth session on that very difficult dyno.
Finally, after what might be over 100 tries in total of all sessions spent on it, I was able to finish it off.
This felt really hard for me, despite being it totally my style.
Once opened as a 7A+, upgraded to 7B, to me it felt like a good 7B+!

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Ouest - L'Immortel 7B




Back down in Bas Cuvier, noticed that the starting pocket of "Pain against Gravity" was dry for once and I put on my climbing shoes.
I felt like I still had something in me and those short explosive problems seem to suit me well mostly.
After a couple of tries I realised where the name came from and had to tape in my whole right ring finger to help me withstand the pain when pulling up hard on the small two finger pocket.

What I thought would have been only one extremely hard move, turned out to be two of them in a row.
In a way, I kind of liked this problem, but on the other hand, I can understand that isn't (and never will be) a popular one.
Before my repetition, this had only 3 registered repetitions, out of which the last public one in 2011, and that for a boulder right at the entrance of Cuvier.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier - Pain against Gravity 7B+(7B)




As soon as I will click on "Publish" now, another piece of me will be immortal.

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