Thursday, March 10, 2016

March 10, 2016 - Get in, get it done, get out.

I didn't have much time after work, but I needed my moment of disconnection.
A short stop at, of course, Gorge aux Châts would do I thought. Maybe I could quickly do "Variaspal".

When I arrived in the main area on the hilltop, my presumption was correct that it was going to be too crowded for me.
There were about 5 or 6 cars parked below and looking at the amount of people, these cars must have been quite full. Full or not, for me 2 is a crowd, so I went back down.

I didn't feel like hiking up the other hill of Gorge aux Châts Sud, so I went straight to the boulder of "Biodiversité". In the middle of it's traverse, is a straight up problem called "Un Morceau de Bio".
It starts with a sitstart, you have to put a high heelhook left and mantle up into the short slab on tiny crimps.

It's a lonely, isolated boulder at the bottom of the slope, on the north face of the hill of Gorge aux Châts Sud.
I had passed by it a couple of times out of curiosity but with the boulder being on the north face and covered by trees, it dries quite slow and I never had the chance to try.
This time it looked humid, and the moss around was wet, but the part where the problem is, was more or less dry. Dry enough to give it a try.

With the high heelhook left, I feared a little bit for my left knee, but it felt ok and I pushed through.
I got it quickly.
Opened as a 7A(7A+), but mantles are not really my style and as it went pretty quick, I give it no more than 7A. Even soft for the grade ... or I must be getting better at mantles.

All in all, the parking, the walking up and down the hill and doing the problem, took me 14 minutes.
I got in, got it done, and got out.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts Sud - Un Morceau de Bio 7A(7A+)


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