It was only when I left the office that a heavy bang of heat struck me, and it hit hard.
On my way home I stopped at Apremont Ouest to try the two standstart versions of "Lullaby". One with the right arete, and one without.
The version with the right arete is the easiest and felt quite easy for the grade. Time will tell if the grade will stay.
The hardest part is actually getting both feet off the ground while holding both starting holds in compression.
Physical start, easy topout.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Lullaby (debout avec l'arête) 7A
The heat was getting unbearable, but after trying the jump without the first move at the start, I immediately felt that this was possible, so I setup the camera again and started recording.
Many times, at least 10, I had the top hold after the jump, but holding on to it and matching the second hand is harder than it seems.
My skin hurt like hell, but I didn't want to give up as I was so close.
Finally I had the top hold good, matched my second hand perfectly and climbed to the top.
Opened as 7A+(7B), I think it's 7A+ max.
My car was standing completely in the shade, still the thermometer said 31°C.
Many times, at least 10, I had the top hold after the jump, but holding on to it and matching the second hand is harder than it seems.
My skin hurt like hell, but I didn't want to give up as I was so close.
Finally I had the top hold good, matched my second hand perfectly and climbed to the top.
Opened as 7A+(7B), I think it's 7A+ max.
My car was standing completely in the shade, still the thermometer said 31°C.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Lullaby (debout) 7A+(7B)
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