April 04, 2026 - Battle for the move.

I had briefly tried "Revue de Presse" during my first visit of that sector in Moigny-sur-Ecole back in 2023 and even though I wasn't able to figure out a sequence, let alone do any move, it had intrigued me and I had put on my backburner list. It took three years before I decided to go back for it, which was about a month and a half ago.
On my first session this year, I ended up figuring out a sequence and do all the moves separately. I was tired, but put it on my priority list, thinking that it would be a quick deal when I came back feeling fresh. This turned out to be far from the truth. I could do the separate moves again, but linking them together proved to be a different business. Three very hard moves in a row, and it almost every time I fell at the second one. As soon as I my right toehook moves just a slight bit, I would fall off, and the right toehook sticking where it is is really key.
Several more sessions followed, and each time it was the same. I fell countless times on that second move. I knew it was possible and that I could physically do it, so it became a mental battle. I knew that if it I would stick that move, I would be able to finish it, I just didn't know when.
I had taken the day off yesterday and set off in the morning for my sixth (!) session, almost expecting that it would just be the same like all the previous ones. I think that if the spot wouldn't be so nice and isolated, I would have probably already given up and turned to something else. My first attempt felt promising, I got closer to doing the second move, but still not close enough, it became quite frustrating. 
Immediately from the first move it starts taking a toll on the core power, but this time, I took longer breaks to recover. During one of my breaks, I thought about trying to find another method, but I knew I had to stick with what I had in mind. But then I did add a slight change. Before starting the second move, I decided to match a left toehook next to my right, allowing me to slightly correct my right toehook and finding the sweet spot where it had the most chance to stick. It was an eye opener. Even though still very hard and difficult, it got me closer. And then, suddenly, it all flowed, everything stuck just right, I made the second move, took the swing, hung on and topped out. What a great relief it was and what a battle, both physically and mentally. This one must have taken me at least fifty attempts from the start.

Fontainebleau - Moigny-sur-Ecole - Revue de Presse 7C(7C+)

March 28, 2026 - Switched habit.

I always prefer climbing in the morning until about 14h, after which I spend the rest of the day working on my barn project. Usually, this is how it goes, but after a rainy night and a few more rain showers yesterday morning, I had to switch my habit, work in my barn in the morning, with a short climbing session later in the afternoon after the sun had come out and a fierce wind blew everything dry. 
The work in my barn is pretty exhaustive so I didn't want to go to my priority project, but went to Roche aux Oiseaux instead to try a newly opened 7B, "L'Oeuf de Poule (assis)". A sitstart to "L'Oeuf de Poule", which is only a 5+ on its own, so the hardest moves were definitely going to be the first ones. With a cold breeze from the North, it was felt quite cold, but that was an advantage on the first move, featuring a very bad sloper for the right hand. Doing the first two moves didn't take me very long, but I was surprised about how difficult it felt to throw the right foot for a toehook. Once I was able to it though, I was able to top out.

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Oiseaux - L'Oeuf de Poule (assis) 7B

This morning, I could return to my usual habit and went to my priority project. The work from yesterday had taken its toll though and I lacked the power to even repeat the crux move separately. Nevertheless, it felt like a good training session and I don't mind going back there next weekend. I will be in a quiet isolated spot during the infamous extremely crowded Easter weekend.

March 22, 2026 - Check mate.

Last week I started trying a project in a very little known area and decided to not post any details until I finish it. I had tried it briefly once in 2023 and even though I had added it to my wantlist, I hadn't gone back to it until last week. Three years I could barely do any of the moves, but last week I managed to unlock all the separate moves and even made some good links. Only three very hard moves, and even harder when trying to do them in a row, so I didn't manage to get away with the send yet. I was determined to go back this weekend and went back yesterday, joined by Jan (Gorrebeeck) who needed some time off in the forest. Still no send, but at least it was a good training, trying all the moves over and over again.

This morning, my body felt sore from trying hard the day before, but I was going to meet Jan in Boissy-aux-Cailles as we agreed to climb a bit in Boissy Le Plaid, trying to avoid the crowds. Not long after I parked my car, Jan wrote me that he overslept, so I went ahead, thinking to use the time to try "Échec", one of the few boulders that I had never tried before due to several reasons. It wasn't after a long time that I had done the separate moves, except for the topout. Doing the crux move again, letting go of the feet and placing the right heel, proved to be real challenge. I don't have long legs so it was nearly impossible to take the oblique left hand crimp exactly how I needed, making the crux feel so much harder and slipping off at crucial moments many times. After a longer rest though, it suddenly all clicked. I broke through and topped out. It was a huge relief standing on top of the boulder, as I was very close to still fall off at the mantle.

Fontainebleau - Boissy Le Plaid - Échec 7C(7B+)

March 14, 2026 - Unexpected.

After a huge amount of rain yesterday and with cloudy grey weather forecasted for today, I wasn't expecting to climb today, but this morning the sun was shining and it was already here and there around my house. I had planned to spend the day working on my barn project, but as it unexpectedly looked possible to climb, I went out in the morning. Still wanting to spend more time than last week on my barn project, I chose something quick drying not far from home and went to try "Prime d'Activité (assis)" in Rocher du Guetteur.
When there were no clouds in front of the sun, it felt already quite warm at that sunny spot, but still cold enough to notice good conditions. The friction felt good. It took me some time to learn the crux move, the dyno to the arete far left, but the progress was quick and steady. Not even half an hour after I arrived, I was able to finish it and pack up for going back home to work on my barn project. I was able to have both after all, unexpected.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Guetteur - Prime d'Activité (assis) 7B

March 08, 2026 - Priority given.

As I wrote yesterday, I had found a new priority project in "La Force Vient du Ventre". I felt quite exhausted this morning due to the labor on my barn project, but by the time I had done my morning habits, I felt stronger and decided to back to Rocher du Mauvais Passage. There was a dense fog, but the friction felt good, maybe even better than yesterday, or maybe it was just because dried out skin due to working with lime mortar yesterday. 
On my warmup attempt, I immediately noticed that I was still in the flow I ended with yesterday, but just missed the far last harder move. On my second attempt, it flowed again and this time I didn't miss the last hard move. I kept calm, realizing that it's still possible to fall off from the topout. It all went like a charm and I topped out.
A great problem that doesn't feel like a traverse despite being catalogued as one.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mauvais Passage - La Force Vient du Ventre 7C(7B+)

March 07, 2026 - Pushing the motivation.

My barn project has been taking a lot of my attention and energy and I somehow felt that I had to force myself to keep the climbing motivation going. Not that I didn't want to climb, but the lack of attention I gave to it made my drive to send go down a bit. This week, I forced myself to pick a climbing project and psyche myself for it. For some reason, it became "La Force Vient du Ventre" in Rocher du Mauvais Passage, with "La Bague Superflue" as a second option. To be able to divide my time well today between climbing and working in my barn, I left quite early already and decided to first try "La Bague Superflue" as a sort of warmup. The other one is quite long, and I wanted to gauge my level first.
I felt quite good and barely half an hour later, I was able to stick both dynos for the second time, kept focused and topped out "La Bague Superflue". Maybe not the hardest of the grade, but it was good for my morale and boosted my motivation.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mauvais Passage - La Bague Superflue 7B

I spent about an hour working out the moves of "La Force Vient du Ventre", which went quite good. By the time I had it all figured out though and was able to flow through the moves, I was getting tired and after finally doing the last hard move when coming from the start, I suddenly felt the energy being sucked out of my forearms and knew that it was time to call it a day. I was very happy with the session though and the progress I had made in this quite long boulder. Maybe a new priority climbing project.

March 01, 2026 - My current biggest project.

My biggest project at the moment is not a climbing project. A couple of weeks ago, I started pointing the inside walls of my barn. A project that would cost me about 15000 euros when a professional made me an offer a few years ago. It wasn't necessary at that time and still isn't today, but as it would make the place more finished, I decided to take on the work myself. I only have time during the weekends and I'm not a professional, so I realize that it will probably be a multi year project given the sheer size of the barn and me not wanting to spend full days on it. I prefer to climb in the morning and later during the day spend a few hours pointing, which is quite an exhausting job. I'm not in a hurry though and the part that I did already is growing steadily and already makes a big difference. Those who know my barn can probably imagine what an undertaking this is.

After having had quite a good up with my climbing lately, it is now in a down. A wave pattern that I have gotten used to though and it doesn't bother me that much anymore; I know that a next up will come again.
During my short visit to the Rocher Saint-Germain Ouest area, I did get away with a jump start version of "XXL (direct)". The static start just feels way too morpho for me.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain Ouest - XXL (direct départ sauté) 7A+(7B)