With rain forecasted to start around noon today, I knew that the climbing session today was going to be short so I went to Buthiers for an easy and quick access to many boulders. To my surprise, the boulders at Buthiers Piscine were wet and I had to let go of the idea to try "Back in the Game". After a walk around and a scroll on bleau.info, I moved to Buthiers Tennis where it was dryer, but not in very good conditions. Not wasting any time, I stopped at the first boulder that got my interest, right next to the road. "Le Petit Oeuf de Pâques" is quite new and something I hadn't tried before. It looked like a fun problem, especially if you like slopers.
Personally, I like climbing with slopers a lot, but when they are sandy, it can become quite frustrating, especially when the conditions make the sand a bit sticky, making it very hard to clean it off the boulder. It was the case today. Even though I was able to make quick progress, there were a few times that I thought that I wasn't going to make it due to these sandy conditions. Not having anything else in mind in such a short time frame made me persist though, and I'm glad I did, as I was able to finish it just before noon.
On the way back home, it started raining. Just in time.
Sunday, January 25, 2026
January 25, 2026 - Sandbag.
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Tennis - Le Petit Oeuf de Pâques 7B
Saturday, January 24, 2026
January 24, 2026 - Out of Sight.
I went to Cuvier Sorcières this morning with the intention to try "Le Proueptologue (assis)". I still remember when I was helping out Neil Hart with his film "Out of Sight" early 2013, featuring relatively unknown boulders at that time, away from everything else. "Le Proueptologue (assis)" was one of them, and I stood in awe, watching someone climb the whole problem over and over again, each time for a different shot for the video. It's hard to imagine it being an unknown boulder at the time. Nothing else was opened yet, the area of Cuvier Sorcières wasn't even a climbing area yet and nor was the nearby area of Cuvier Bellevue, a pretty popular area nowadays.
I had a quite good session trying "Le Proueptologue (assis)" but remained empty handed. Definitely a project, but not a priority one.
To not go back home empty handed, I climbed the nearby "Le Gymnécologue (assis)", which only needed two attempts.
I had a quite good session trying "Le Proueptologue (assis)" but remained empty handed. Definitely a project, but not a priority one.
To not go back home empty handed, I climbed the nearby "Le Gymnécologue (assis)", which only needed two attempts.
Fontainebleau - Cuvier Sorcières - Le Gymnécologue (assis) 7A+
While packing up, I thought about passing by the isolated big boulder of "L'Âpre Houx". I had looked at the sitstart a few times, but it was either wet, or the huge move from the start always looked impossible and I never was motivated enough to try it. Now I decided to give a chance even though it still looked quite impossible at first sight, but at least it was dry.
I kind of surprised myself with how fast I was making progress on it, making a big swing and just launching to the sloper as if something exploded beneath me. The only way for me to reach the sloper after launching myself is by letting go of the barely existing footholds, otherwise it was simply impossible for me to reach.
When I finally stuck it a first time, I realized that the next move was quite hard as well when not standing on anything. After quickly trying that part separately, I made it on my attempt right after it. I liked it more that I thought I would and at least didn't go home empty handed.
I kind of surprised myself with how fast I was making progress on it, making a big swing and just launching to the sloper as if something exploded beneath me. The only way for me to reach the sloper after launching myself is by letting go of the barely existing footholds, otherwise it was simply impossible for me to reach.
When I finally stuck it a first time, I realized that the next move was quite hard as well when not standing on anything. After quickly trying that part separately, I made it on my attempt right after it. I liked it more that I thought I would and at least didn't go home empty handed.
Fontainebleau - Cuvier Sorcières - L'Âpre Houx (assis) 7B
Sunday, January 11, 2026
January 11, 2026 - Fear the end.
I tried "La Maison de la Presse" the first time for only a short session. It was mid Summer, two years ago I think, and the right side of the boulder was full in the morning sun, making it nearly impossible to do more than two moves in a row. It did give me however, a sense of most of the moves, but more than two years later, I had already forgotten about them. I had hoped to try it again during my Christmas vacation, but other priorities had received my attention. Yesterday was the first time that I went back for it.
The conditions were dry, but less than good. The friction definitely wasn't like last week and two weeks ago. I did manage to figure out all of the moves and even climb up to the last hard move, but slipped off with my right hand at a crucial moment. From there, the hard part is over, but it's where the scary part starts. I don't know if I had to feel disappointed for slipping off there, or to be relieved not having to that scary part with nearly frozen toes. You surely don't want to fall off at the topout, because breaking bones would almost certainly be the result, if not worse. My attempts after that highpoint were getting worse, so I knew I had to give it a break, but was determined to come back soon. It had become my new priority project.
This morning, even though not forecasted as such, it looked like a beautiful day. It was cold and the sun was out. I drove back to "La Maison de la Presse" after breakfast and tried to not make myself too nervous. With the progress that I had made yesterday, I knew that it was only a matter of time and hoped for time to be early in the session, before my toes would be frozen again.
My first attempt of the day was good. The conditions still far from perfect, but slightly better than yesterday. On my second attempt, I cruised through the hard part and suddenly found myself standing in the slab. I had never done the topout before, and even though you can kind of make up what's up there when looking from the bottom, I didn't really know what to expect. For sure, it's not very hard, but I had to take a deep breath to motivate myself to commit and climb on. I was scared, but didn't let it take over. It was a huge relief when I finally stood on the top. I was happy and relieved to have finished "La Maison de la Presse", but more importantly, I was still alive and hadn't broken any bones.
The conditions were dry, but less than good. The friction definitely wasn't like last week and two weeks ago. I did manage to figure out all of the moves and even climb up to the last hard move, but slipped off with my right hand at a crucial moment. From there, the hard part is over, but it's where the scary part starts. I don't know if I had to feel disappointed for slipping off there, or to be relieved not having to that scary part with nearly frozen toes. You surely don't want to fall off at the topout, because breaking bones would almost certainly be the result, if not worse. My attempts after that highpoint were getting worse, so I knew I had to give it a break, but was determined to come back soon. It had become my new priority project.
This morning, even though not forecasted as such, it looked like a beautiful day. It was cold and the sun was out. I drove back to "La Maison de la Presse" after breakfast and tried to not make myself too nervous. With the progress that I had made yesterday, I knew that it was only a matter of time and hoped for time to be early in the session, before my toes would be frozen again.
My first attempt of the day was good. The conditions still far from perfect, but slightly better than yesterday. On my second attempt, I cruised through the hard part and suddenly found myself standing in the slab. I had never done the topout before, and even though you can kind of make up what's up there when looking from the bottom, I didn't really know what to expect. For sure, it's not very hard, but I had to take a deep breath to motivate myself to commit and climb on. I was scared, but didn't let it take over. It was a huge relief when I finally stood on the top. I was happy and relieved to have finished "La Maison de la Presse", but more importantly, I was still alive and hadn't broken any bones.
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - La Maison de la Presse 7C
Thursday, January 1, 2026
January 01, 2026 - First of the year.
I don't really celebrate New Year's Eve as I don't really see the point in forcing myself to stay up late and just feel tired the day after. As usual, I was in bed early, and was ready to go climbing this morning.
I went to Gorges du Houx Petit Paradis with the intention to try "Au Petit Paradis", but my skin isn't in the best shape anymore after so many good climbing days, and I didn't feel totally secure with the big boulder in the back. I gave up on it after a short while, but stopped at the quite new "CSCSCS" on my way back to the car.
I thought, and it looked like, that it was only going to be one very hard move, but then came the mantle. It took me quite some time and attempts before I finally stuck the very hard far move to a very bad sloper, but was surprised by how hard the mantle still was and fell off.
I stuck the hard a couple of times again, but again fell off the mantle twice, one time even when I was as good as standing on top of the boulder. My toes were absolutely freezing and I didn't expect to be able to finish it anymore, but then I stuck the dynamic move again, and without any feeling in my toes trusted the small pebble I had to stand up on. I imagined myself falling off again, but somehow made it all the way through to the end. A great start of the new year.
I went to Gorges du Houx Petit Paradis with the intention to try "Au Petit Paradis", but my skin isn't in the best shape anymore after so many good climbing days, and I didn't feel totally secure with the big boulder in the back. I gave up on it after a short while, but stopped at the quite new "CSCSCS" on my way back to the car.
I thought, and it looked like, that it was only going to be one very hard move, but then came the mantle. It took me quite some time and attempts before I finally stuck the very hard far move to a very bad sloper, but was surprised by how hard the mantle still was and fell off.
I stuck the hard a couple of times again, but again fell off the mantle twice, one time even when I was as good as standing on top of the boulder. My toes were absolutely freezing and I didn't expect to be able to finish it anymore, but then I stuck the dynamic move again, and without any feeling in my toes trusted the small pebble I had to stand up on. I imagined myself falling off again, but somehow made it all the way through to the end. A great start of the new year.
Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Petit Paradis - CSCSCS 7C+
Wednesday, December 31, 2025
December 31, 2025 - Being in control.
With the ongoing good conditions, I had planned for and hoped to climb another project on the last day of 2025. The project I chose was "Contrôle A" in Buthiers Piscine. Last year in Summer, I had briefly held the top sloper, but missed the friction to pull on it just a bit more to get it good enough, allowing me to match with the right hand and finally top it out. The good conditions would for sure be very welcome if only I would get to the same point again.
Steven (Demets) decided to stop in Bleau on his way back to Belgium and I was glad that he agreed to join me in Buthiers Piscine. He was even kind enough to carry one of the three crashpads that I had taken with me.
My first couple of attempts were only mediocre, but with the good friction, I was able to place the right foot slightly higher and reach higher up on the top sloper. Still though, it didn't feel far enough and I couldn't put enough controlled pressure on my right foot to make the far move static. Instead, it felt like I was just launching at it, making it feel nearly impossible to hold the high sloper.
I had a couple of breaks while spotting Steven in some other nearby problems, and started to loose motivation, thinking that the "Contrôle A" might be too morpho for me. Steven's encouragement helped motivate me and I decided to give a last attempt, thinking that I probably won't again and just see where I would get. Maybe it was the feeling of letting go that made me suddenly climb very controlled. It all felt perfect. As soon as I placed the right foot at the same higher spot, I immediately felt that it was going to stay were it was this time and I was able to really push on it this time. It got me high enough to statically reach for the top sloper left hand, where it stuck. It almost felt easy, I had everything under control. Without hesitation, I matched with the right hand and knew that it was over. I topped out in slight disbelief. Another project done, and a perfect one to end 2025 with.
Thanks again to Steven for the motivation, spotting and carrying an additional crashpad.
Steven (Demets) decided to stop in Bleau on his way back to Belgium and I was glad that he agreed to join me in Buthiers Piscine. He was even kind enough to carry one of the three crashpads that I had taken with me.
My first couple of attempts were only mediocre, but with the good friction, I was able to place the right foot slightly higher and reach higher up on the top sloper. Still though, it didn't feel far enough and I couldn't put enough controlled pressure on my right foot to make the far move static. Instead, it felt like I was just launching at it, making it feel nearly impossible to hold the high sloper.
I had a couple of breaks while spotting Steven in some other nearby problems, and started to loose motivation, thinking that the "Contrôle A" might be too morpho for me. Steven's encouragement helped motivate me and I decided to give a last attempt, thinking that I probably won't again and just see where I would get. Maybe it was the feeling of letting go that made me suddenly climb very controlled. It all felt perfect. As soon as I placed the right foot at the same higher spot, I immediately felt that it was going to stay were it was this time and I was able to really push on it this time. It got me high enough to statically reach for the top sloper left hand, where it stuck. It almost felt easy, I had everything under control. Without hesitation, I matched with the right hand and knew that it was over. I topped out in slight disbelief. Another project done, and a perfect one to end 2025 with.
Thanks again to Steven for the motivation, spotting and carrying an additional crashpad.
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Piscine - Contrôle A 7C
Tuesday, December 30, 2025
December 29-30, 2025 - Maybe, maybe not.
Yesterday was extremely cold and the temperature barely reached just above 0°C. It felt tough for the freezing toes while climbing and I couldn't find the right motivation to really try hard. I quite quickly gave up on "Frénésie" in Petit Rempart and turned to the easier graded and looking "Révélation", right behind "Frénésie". For some reason I hadn't tried that one before and I underestimated it by just going by the look of it. Only one move, but it felt far, coming from a bad sloper right hand a tiny razor sharp crimp for the left. Trying to ignore the feeling of the crimp cutting in my fingertips, I finally did manage to pull hard enough and jump to the good hold and top out. It was all I did yesterday, because the freezing toes had become unbearable.
Fontainebleau - Petit Rempart - Révélation 7B
It was a big difference this morning, with 1° above freezing when I woke up. By the time I left home, around noon, it was already a quite nice 4°C, which made a big difference compared to yesterday. I didn't want to go far, so I went to Gorge aux Châts to try "Probablement" again. It had been a few years since I had last tried this one. Up to that time, I had spent at least four sessions on it, just trying the first move, never having been able to stick it.
After having left it alone for a few years, I thought I would go back and see how different it would be this time, especially with the conditions being very good again. Not a luxury in this problem.
I had always known "Probablement" to start with a crouching start, going by the only video that I was posted on bleau.info, but a more recent video shows that also a real sitstart is possible, adding another move at the start. I decided to stick with how I always had known it, with a crouching start. I wanted to warm up with the second part of the problem, just after the big dynamic move to the crimp, but I couldn't even do that. After some time, I decided to switch to trying the big dynamic move, and noticed that I was getting quite close. When I finally almost had it, I decided to turn on the camera, just in case, even without having been able to do the second part. Maybe it would go, maybe not.
Somehow, I stuck the huge dynamic move for the first time ever, and miraculously kept it together and topped it out. I almost couldn't believe what had just happened.
After having left it alone for a few years, I thought I would go back and see how different it would be this time, especially with the conditions being very good again. Not a luxury in this problem.
I had always known "Probablement" to start with a crouching start, going by the only video that I was posted on bleau.info, but a more recent video shows that also a real sitstart is possible, adding another move at the start. I decided to stick with how I always had known it, with a crouching start. I wanted to warm up with the second part of the problem, just after the big dynamic move to the crimp, but I couldn't even do that. After some time, I decided to switch to trying the big dynamic move, and noticed that I was getting quite close. When I finally almost had it, I decided to turn on the camera, just in case, even without having been able to do the second part. Maybe it would go, maybe not.
Somehow, I stuck the huge dynamic move for the first time ever, and miraculously kept it together and topped it out. I almost couldn't believe what had just happened.
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Probablement (accroupi) 7C(7B+)
Saturday, December 27, 2025
December 27, 2025 - Take a bite.
It's still extremely cold, but the sunshine yesterday made it very bearable. Unfortunately today, the sky had become covered by clouds again so there was no sun anymore to briefly warm up in again. In one way, I wanted to let my body rest and recover a bit, but the still very good conditions made me change my mind and I looked up a condition dependent problem on my list. I chose "Snak" in Cuvier Est. Very bad slopers require good conditions and this problem was nothing but bad slopers.
I had tried "Snak" maybe two times, but only briefly because it was in the Summer and the sun was directly in my face and warming up the slopers. I knew that I had to come back one day in Winter with good conditions, but that was already a few years ago and I hadn't gone back for it for some reason. Today definitely was a good time.
The conditions turned out to be not as good as yesterday, but still more than good enough. I didn't even need an hour of time for topping out this nice sloper problem. It's all in the details when trying to climb up a basketball-like problem.
Glad to be able to tick this one off the list.
I had tried "Snak" maybe two times, but only briefly because it was in the Summer and the sun was directly in my face and warming up the slopers. I knew that I had to come back one day in Winter with good conditions, but that was already a few years ago and I hadn't gone back for it for some reason. Today definitely was a good time.
The conditions turned out to be not as good as yesterday, but still more than good enough. I didn't even need an hour of time for topping out this nice sloper problem. It's all in the details when trying to climb up a basketball-like problem.
Glad to be able to tick this one off the list.
Fontainebleau - Cuvier Est - Snak 7C
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