I enjoyed the holiday very much, it was nice and too short, but on the other hand, I liked going back to work.
Getting back to the usual structure keeps things plain and simple. You just do what needs to be done and take everything else what comes and goes. Simply going with the flow.
The day started with a nice surprise. On the way to work, I won 2 tickets for 'France Miniature' on the regional radio station "Evasion".
They play stupid main stream music but I get to listen to the news and win something once in a while.
In the past I already won 2 times 2 tickets for 'Asterix' parc and once 50€ worth of fuel. This time, as mentioned before, it were 2 tickets for 'France Miniature'.
Anyway, the day at work passed quickly and on the way home, I stopped at Franchard Isatis.
Not long ago, I saw a video from Jérôme Collet that featured "Les Deux Font la Paire" which drew my attention.
It looked nice on the video, and my main reason for stopping at Isatis was to try that particular problem.
It was a fun short session.
With the small boulder underneath the problem you can reach almost all the holds, so working out the moves separately was easy.
I took my time, worked out every move and only needed a couple of tries before I was able to link it all together.
Every move on it is beautiful! A nice flow where body positioning is the key of success.
Two make a pair, plain and simple!
Fontainebleau - Franchard Isatis - Les Deux Font la Paire 7A+(7B)
With still 15 minutes left, I walked to "Globuli" that I once tried a couple of months ago.
I got close to finishing it, but my skin was wrecked so I had to throw in the towel and come back another day.
It's a small problem with only about 5 moves, and as I still remembered them, I thought it would probably be a quick send.
In the end, it was a quick send, but I did have to change the stance of my right foot to be able to reach and stick the high sloper pocket on the left.
Last time I that too, but always failed matching my right hand near the top because of 'waving the flag' too much. I made it this time, but it was a close call.
Nice little problem on slopers and compression that unfortunately tends to be forgotten by a lot of climbers.
All in all, it does vanish a bit in between all the bigger boulders in the area, but you just have to take the time to try it. It's that simple!
I got close to finishing it, but my skin was wrecked so I had to throw in the towel and come back another day.
It's a small problem with only about 5 moves, and as I still remembered them, I thought it would probably be a quick send.
In the end, it was a quick send, but I did have to change the stance of my right foot to be able to reach and stick the high sloper pocket on the left.
Last time I that too, but always failed matching my right hand near the top because of 'waving the flag' too much. I made it this time, but it was a close call.
Nice little problem on slopers and compression that unfortunately tends to be forgotten by a lot of climbers.
All in all, it does vanish a bit in between all the bigger boulders in the area, but you just have to take the time to try it. It's that simple!
Fontainebleau - Franchard Isatis - Globuli 7A
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