Still, I left early, parked at 9h am at the Carrefour de Belle Croix and started walking to La Mare à Piat.
The first problem that I tried on the way to the main area was "Rien dans le Ventre", in one of the old quarries close to the parking.
It's a beautiful belly on slopers with perfect compression moves.
I had seen a video from it, but the method with the high heelhook left I had seen didn't work for me, so I had to figure out an alternative.
Luckily I'm not that tall, because the method I used will probably be harder for the tall among us.
Beautiful problem that gets 5 stars from me on bleau.info!
I hope the ascent is valid, because I did have the muesli that I had for breakfast in my belly, but on the other hand, there is no spleen anymore in it, so maybe that compensates.
Fontainebleau - La Mare à Piat - Rien dans le Ventre 7A+
It came into my mind to try the big dyno to the very high left pocket, but honestly, I chickened out.
It's the kind of dyno that, when you have the jug and slip, will make you helicopter down uncontrollably, not knowing where and how you will fall, so ... nope, not alone by myself.
That said, I walked on towards the classical roof with "Orgasme Cosmique" that I had done more than a year ago.
For some reason, I hadn't tried "Utopium" next to it, and now there even is also "Utopium Cosmique".
These two problems were still on my have-to-do list for today.
I laid out the crashpad and set off.
"Utopium" went down on my flash attempt, but be it with a little hestitation.
It's the kind of dyno that, when you have the jug and slip, will make you helicopter down uncontrollably, not knowing where and how you will fall, so ... nope, not alone by myself.
That said, I walked on towards the classical roof with "Orgasme Cosmique" that I had done more than a year ago.
For some reason, I hadn't tried "Utopium" next to it, and now there even is also "Utopium Cosmique".
These two problems were still on my have-to-do list for today.
I laid out the crashpad and set off.
"Utopium" went down on my flash attempt, but be it with a little hestitation.
Fontainebleau - La Mare à Piat - Utopium 7A
Up next was "Utopium Cosmique", which starts in "Utopium", but at the edge of the roof, traverses to the right to finish in "Orgasme Cosmique".
I flashed it too. Very nice variation with a cool swing and some campus moves!
I flashed it too. Very nice variation with a cool swing and some campus moves!
Fontainebleau - La Mare à Piat - Utopium Cosmique 7A(7A+)
The afternoon was swimming time with the family, and when we were back home, I noticed on bleau.info that Grégoire Thibault had opened some new boulders in Roche aux Oiseaux and it was just published today.
Roche aux Oiseaux is nearly in our backyard, so after diner it was the place to go.
I definitely wanted to try "L'Architecte Trismégiste (droite)", located right next to "La Révolution du Silence".
The problem is very exposed, so before I gave it a go, I tried the exit first. I didn't want to risk doing the first exposed moves and finding myself in a position where I still had to look for a method to top it out.
It took me a while before I found a method that worked, but in the end I did find it.
I turned on the camera and did the problem on my first attempt from the start.
One can feel that the boulder was just cleaned, because the friction on the slopers was simply perfect.
It scratched a lot skin off my forearms, but the slopers just stuck!
It was very tempting to try the direct up version, which is 7C, but the broken tree just underneath it could kill you when you fall on it from near the top. No joke!
Very nice find of Grégoire, and somehow it's hard to believe that such a masterpiece could be left unnoticed for so long!
Roche aux Oiseaux is nearly in our backyard, so after diner it was the place to go.
I definitely wanted to try "L'Architecte Trismégiste (droite)", located right next to "La Révolution du Silence".
The problem is very exposed, so before I gave it a go, I tried the exit first. I didn't want to risk doing the first exposed moves and finding myself in a position where I still had to look for a method to top it out.
It took me a while before I found a method that worked, but in the end I did find it.
I turned on the camera and did the problem on my first attempt from the start.
One can feel that the boulder was just cleaned, because the friction on the slopers was simply perfect.
It scratched a lot skin off my forearms, but the slopers just stuck!
It was very tempting to try the direct up version, which is 7C, but the broken tree just underneath it could kill you when you fall on it from near the top. No joke!
Very nice find of Grégoire, and somehow it's hard to believe that such a masterpiece could be left unnoticed for so long!
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Oiseaux - L'Architecte Trismégiste (droite) 7B
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