August 13, 2016 - Fixing the shadow.

Last week, Pieter told me about a nice nameless 7B with typical Bleau style 'elephant skin' slopers, that made him think it would most likely be my style.
Of course, this drew my attention and I looked it up. It turned out that it's called "L'Hipposarse".

This morning, I tried to be in Cuisinière Carnage before the heat to try "L'Hipposarse".
It's quite a long walk and after a short search, I found it. It did indeed look beautiful and was exactly how he described it.
It had started to get hot already, but luckily it was still in the shade.

The jumpstart to the first sloper turned out to be harder than I thought and I had to hurry because slowly the sun was starting to peek from behind the tree.
From what I could see, once the sun would pass the tree, the slopers would be exposed to full direct sun and heat for at least 2 hours, so waiting for the sun to pass was no option.
Especially with this sandstone that traps the heat for a long time.

After sticking the first sloper, there come even more and worse slopers and I fell off the topout 3 times.
By now, the sun had reached them and I had to figure out a way to keep them in the shade so they wouldn't heat up. As I had seen and done before, I used my minipad and some sticks to create the necessary shade.
The skin on my fingertips was getting thinner and thinner with each try, to the point they started sweating due to the lack of skin.
I had come all this way now and didn't want to let it go so I kept on trying.

My relief was great when I had finally found a way to struggle myself to the top.
I'm certain that fixing the shadow had helped because when I removed the minipad, the slopers were in the full sun.
I'm quite sure that if it would have been colder, it would have gone quicker.

Fontainebleau - Cuisinière Carnage - L'Hipposarse 7B

On the way back, I tried some more problems here and there in Cuisinière, but not for long because each time I had to move and flee from the sun and the heat.
Moreover, I did loose a lot of energy and especially skin on "L'Hipposarse".

The short swim in the river felt like heaven. I think I could hear a hissing sound when I dipped down in the cold water.

After a nice evening BBQ at home, I went to Roche aux Sabots that was still quite crowded and more climbers were still arriving.
I guess they too had fled to cooler grounds in the afternoon and wanted to profit from the slightly cooler evening air to have a last climb before the dark.

It was a very short session in which I climbed "Parmi les Fous j'Erre".
The convention says that you have to start with the right hand on the vague pinch just left of the blue mark, which I did, but as it didn't say anything about the left hand, I took whatever I could reach.
I did send a text message to Bruno Lazzerini, the opener, to confirm the non-convention for the left hand, but didn't receive a reply yet.

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - Parmi les Fous j'Erre 7A