Sunday, June 28, 2026

June 27-28, 2026 - Cool down.

The temperatures have been rising more and more throughout the week and the nights stayed hot. On top of that, the temperature in my home office just below the roof rose up to 34°C every day of the workweek. Even the water of our swimming pool reached up to 35°C, so that even didn't cool me down enough. My only cool moment was under a cold shower in the evening, but those didn't last for long. The heatwave is taking its toll and they even closed the Trois Pignons forest due to too high risk of fire. We are longing for this extreme heatwave to stop and cool down, especially during the night.
Yesterday early morning, with the Trois Pignons (including Coquibus) still closed, I drove to Rocher Saint-Germain to try "Sérendipité (assis)", but this being in the sun in the morning, I passed on it and walked on to "Mazurka". This one being well in the shade, was very doable and the one hard move seemed to suit me well as I had it on my third attempt and topped out. Didn't feel hard enough for the grade, but I was happy with it. 
After briefly trying "Le Guerrier Gris", it quickly became way too hot and I went back home.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain Centre - Mazurka 7B+



Yesterday evening we finally had a short thunder storm and despite heavy wind and having big hope for some rain, it settled with only a handful of drops, not enough to make anything wet. It did cool down slightly and the night almost felt bearable.
Being a cloudy morning this morning, the temperature didn't rise as quick as the previous days and I went back to "Fat Teddy's Drop" in Eléphant Nord. It was only a short session because it finally started raining lightly, enough to make the top of the boulder quite wet. The boulder felt warm, so I knew it would dry very quickly once the rain stopped, but I didn't know how long it would rain and I didn't want to wait it out, so I went back home to do some work around the house and in my barn.
By early afternoon, the temperature again reached well above 30°C, but somehow I had a feeling that I should go back to "Fat Teddy's Drop". After a few moments of doubting, I decided to pack up again and go for it, despite the heat. 
The boulder was still warm, but the friction felt good and I knew that I could have chance. Already on my first attempt, I finally stuck the campus move briefly, but fell off due to firing off the big crimp right hand. A short rest later, I went for another attempt and immediately felt that it felt right. Everything flowed and I stuck the dyno to the slot. As I already done the second part, starting with the campus move, on my first session, I knew what to do and cruised through to the top. Going back had been totally worth it.
Did the crouching start, as recommended on bleau.info, to avoid the big, very sandy, low holds.

Fontainebleau - Eléphant Nord - Fat Teddy's Drop 7C+(7C)

Sunday, June 21, 2026

June 21, 2026 - Mosquito breakfast.

Like in many other countries in Europe, there's a severe heatwave and climbing is only possible in the morning. Not a good time for hard climbs, but nevertheless, I went to Eléphant Nord yesterday morning to try "Fat Teddy's Drop". Just like "Coup de Lune", not the best time to try it, because despite bein on the North side of the hill, the boulder does get sun in the morning, so the temperature there rose quickly. Not a session in vain though, because I was able to do  all the moves and climb the boulder in two parts. Catching the swing followed by the campus move, seems to be my crux.
This morning, I chose something extremely shady and drove to Marlanval to try "Mach 4". The boulder being in a very dense part of the forest, would surely be shady, and moreover, dry. It's a very humid spot though, also in this heat, and insects seem to like it there a lot. It didn't take long before the mosquitos found out I was there and feasted on me like I was the first breakfast they had in weeks. Yet there also, the temperature was rising fast and I was glad it didn't take me too long to finish "Mach 4", albeit with slightly shaky legs at the topout.

Fontainebleau - Marlanval - Mach 4 7B

Wednesday, June 17, 2026

June 17, 2026 - Cruise to the moon.

Last Friday evening after dinner, I drove to Eléphant as I had finally gathered the courage to try "Coup de Lune". A very popular boulder that I had never dare to try as it looks quite intimidating. I was motivated to find a new priority project in it and only went with the intention to build up confidence. 
I was quite quickly able to climb through the first part, but got stuck at the high hold right hand. I expected it to be a relatively good crimp, but it turns out to be a sloper and I couldn't find enough friction to hold it long enough and to feel comfortable on it. It didn't bother me yet, because the tone was set and the problem already looked less intimidating.
The day after, on Saturday, I went back but it didn't take long before the problem was full in the sun. I did make a bit of progress though, so I was happy with the result after the session.
Eager to go back, but with the big heat wave in sight with temperatures going towards 40°C by the end of the week, I didn't want to wait for it to become too hot so went back this evening after dinner. The problem was in the shade, but it was still 31°C in the shade, feeling hot. My skin felt good though and the with only 40% air humidity I wasn't sweating yet. I slowly prepared myself, both physically and mentally and full of confidence, I started my warmup attempt. I cruised through the first part, got the high sloper right hand, and immediately felt that it was good. It somehow stuck. Keeping my calm, I cruised to the next hold, from where it was unknown territory for me, besides the few beta videos that I had watched a week earlier. It all felt perfect somehow and I kept cruising up to the top.
Such a beautiful classic problem!

Fontainebleau - Eléphant - Coup de Lune 7C

Sunday, June 7, 2026

June 05-07, 2026 - Distraction.

Knowing that I wouldn't have a lot of time for climbing due to other priorities during the weekend, I already went for a quick climb Friday evening after dinner. Opened and suggested to me by Theo (Konstantakopoulos), I stayed close to home and went to try "Trempé dans le Feu" in Roche aux Sabots.
The problem again a fun hard one-mover into an easy outclimb, like many of Theo's problems. The hard move looked too far at first, but slightly changing body position and considering minor tweaks, I ended up doing it quite fast. Definitely not the easiest for the grade.

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - Trempé dans le Feu 7A



Saturday I barely spent time climbing, and the little time that I did, it felt rushed and I couldn't finish anything harder that I tried.
Sunday, also not too much time, so again close to home, I spent a short session in Coquibus Vendée. "Le Petit Toit" had been on my list for some time, but I had never taken the time to actuallly go and try it, until this morning. It looked possible to flash, so I turned on the camera and indeed flashed it with quite some ease.
It was the only thing that I topped out though.

Fontainebleau - Coquibus Vendée - Le Petit Toit 7A