Today, around noon, I was driving home to work from home in the afternoon and stopped at Franchard Isatis for my lunchbreak.
I didn't have much time so walked in a fast pace to "Plastikman" to do a quick repeat for the video.
First time I did it was in 2009, which seems like ages ago, and I didn't have much trouble with it back then.
Quite my style, and because I have gotten stronger and more experienced over the years, I now flashed it with ease.
Fontainebleau - Franchard Isatis - Plastikman 7A
With the time I had left, I set my fingers on "Le Lot de Boudins" and even though I felt that this was possible, I knew I wouldn't have enough time to work in it more, so I went for the in-between, "Donnant-Donnant".
Same start, but exit with small crimps at about 1m to the right of the start.
I can still feel the crimp on my fingertips.
Same start, but exit with small crimps at about 1m to the right of the start.
I can still feel the crimp on my fingertips.
Fontainebleau - Franchard Isatis - Donnant-Donnant 7A(7A+)
After diner, I went for some more video repetitions in Justice de Chambergeot, at barely 5 minutes from home.
Up first was "Perlim" that I was able to flash in 2012.
No flash this time due to slopers covered with needles from the pine trees, but a second attempt after some cleaning.
Up first was "Perlim" that I was able to flash in 2012.
No flash this time due to slopers covered with needles from the pine trees, but a second attempt after some cleaning.
Fontainebleau - Justice de Chambergeot - Perlim 6C+(7A)
Next to it, on the same boulder lies the über classic of the area, "EOS".
This problem remains one of my all time favourites!
First time was in 2012, of which I already had a video but it was recorded with an old iPhone and was in bad quality.
In the meantime I repeated it a couple of times, but never had the camera with me. Now I had, so why not? It's a problem that I can repeat nearly every time with a beta that hasn't been repeated by some very strong climbers. It simply fits me perfectly.
Too bad that this time, I ripped my Black Diamond pants in the process. Big bummer!! I love that pant!
This problem remains one of my all time favourites!
First time was in 2012, of which I already had a video but it was recorded with an old iPhone and was in bad quality.
In the meantime I repeated it a couple of times, but never had the camera with me. Now I had, so why not? It's a problem that I can repeat nearly every time with a beta that hasn't been repeated by some very strong climbers. It simply fits me perfectly.
Too bad that this time, I ripped my Black Diamond pants in the process. Big bummer!! I love that pant!
Fontainebleau - Justice de Chambergeot - EOS 7A+(7B)
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