It was a very justified remark, making my ascent not a valid one.
Today, I took a few hours off work and stopped earlier so I could be in Rocher du Mauvais Passage before the real heat.
It didn't really help, because by the time I was there, it was already 36°C in the shade. I'm really missing the fresher days here.
After the small walk up to the boulders, I was already bathing in sweat, but luckily most of the boulder was pretty much in the shade. No wind though ...
I sat down at the problem, took both aretes and couldn't lift my ass off the ground for a milimeter.
It's true that sitting down on the ground puts your butt below your center of gravity so lifting it up from that position was tremendously harder.
A few tries later, I managed to find a beta with which I was able to lift myself from the ground and even start swinging my right hand towards the jug. The impossible started to seem possible.
I was sweating so hard however and getting so overheated that I needed to do all I could to cool my body down, so ... I took off my pants and stood there in my boxers and white legs, looking like a fool with my socks in my climbing shoes. But I couldn't care less, I needed to cool down.
Eventually, I made the first move, took the swing, climbed towards the end, but fell off near the end. Damn that heat and sweaty hands.
I practiced the topout again, slightly changed my beta so I could use less slopers, sat down again and climbed the whole problem from the ground.
It seems that Jérôme had made a bet with Nicolas Gensollen (the other opener) that nobody else would repeat this problem.
Well, I'm really sorry Jérôme, but you lost the bet for real this time.
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mauvais Passage - L'Inhomogène 7B
I tried some other problems in the area, but it was just too hot to finish something else.
Besides, I was going to meet Sandra and the kids at the river anyway for a nice refreshing swim, which felt heaven by the way!
After Friday evening's pizza time, I went to Rocher du Guetteur to try a dyno that I had tried before, but never succeeded.
"Le Jeté Pignon" can be found on the North face of the huge main boulder of Rocher du Guetteur, so I knew that it probably wouldn't have heated up too much during the day.
I always park on the unofficial parking for the area.
Advantage is that it is a shorter walk, but on the hand, the walk goes over a sandy hors trail that makes the shorter walk a bit more annoying. Can't have it all.
The jump itself is not very high, but getting into the position for the jump is a hard physical part.
Very hard on the fingers, especially the small undercling that you use to start with and use to match with the other hand.
The footholds are almost non existant, so pushing off for the jump becomes very tricky.
All in all, compared to the famous dyno "Vin Rouge" in Franchard Isatis, I personally think that "Le Jeté Pignon" is a tad harder.
Besides, I was going to meet Sandra and the kids at the river anyway for a nice refreshing swim, which felt heaven by the way!
After Friday evening's pizza time, I went to Rocher du Guetteur to try a dyno that I had tried before, but never succeeded.
"Le Jeté Pignon" can be found on the North face of the huge main boulder of Rocher du Guetteur, so I knew that it probably wouldn't have heated up too much during the day.
I always park on the unofficial parking for the area.
Advantage is that it is a shorter walk, but on the hand, the walk goes over a sandy hors trail that makes the shorter walk a bit more annoying. Can't have it all.
The jump itself is not very high, but getting into the position for the jump is a hard physical part.
Very hard on the fingers, especially the small undercling that you use to start with and use to match with the other hand.
The footholds are almost non existant, so pushing off for the jump becomes very tricky.
All in all, compared to the famous dyno "Vin Rouge" in Franchard Isatis, I personally think that "Le Jeté Pignon" is a tad harder.
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Guetteur - Le Jeté Pignon 7A+(7A)
The sandy horsetrail.
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