August 15, 2016 - Something deadly.

Pieter and his girlfriend Kumiko (not sure if it's written correctly) were going for a walk in the back of Franchard, behind Cuisinière and Carnage.
I was up for it, but I couldn't resist taking my climbing shoes and chalk bag with me. You never know what you might run in to, and if a nice boulder would not be too high with a safe landing, you might as well have some gear with you and climb it.

We walked behind Cuisinière, passed Carnage, up to parking of Gorges de Franchard and came back via Franchard Raymond and then Franchard Ermitage.
At Franchard Ermitage we had a look at the few boulders near the bottom of the slope and stumbled upon the gem of "Mort à Crédit".
The boulder is not high, the landing is good and the problem looks beautiful, so I couldn't resist.

No crashpad, but with Pieter as good spotter, I put on my climbing shoes and gave it some goes.
It didn't take long, but Pieter touched me maybe too much on a swing when I made it to the top.
To be sure, I did it again, but this time there was no touch.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Ermitage - Mort à Crédit 7A

We ended our walk and separated our ways. 

Pieter still had a long drive ahead and I went for a swim in the river to cool down.

After diner, I went to Canche aux Merciers Anarchodrome.

Mostly traverses there, but "Penchant Mortel" is not one of them.

I had seen 2 videos of it. 

One of someone climbing it while using a jug on the left and one from our good friend Ivan Moreels who did it without the jug on the left.

I easily flashed the version with the jug and immediately thought that is in no way a 7A, but more like a 6B(6C) at most.

I asked Jean-Pierre to create a new page for it on bleau.info and call it "Penchant Mortel (gauche)" as I think many people will be confused and climb it the wrong way.

Fontainebleau - Canche aux Merciers Anarchodrome - Penchant Mortel (gauche) 6B(6C)

I then started trying the version without the jug on the left and this immediately became a totally different story from the first move on.

Here it really becomes deadly for the fingers and I started to have an idea where the name might have come from.

It took me about 15 minutes before I was able to link it all together. This felt like a real 7A!

Fontainebleau - Canche aux Merciers Anarchodrome - Penchant Mortel 7A