Sunday, July 7, 2024

July 07, 2024 - Flapper friendly.

Yesterday I was reminded the hard way to always try a topout if possible to avoid any surprises when coming from the start of a climb. I had worked out all the moves and links of "Dévers et des Pas Durs (assis)" in Apremont Désert, and when I went or the complete ascent, cruised through the problem, but found myself struggling at the mantle. I fought and tried several things, but ended up falling off, where I shouldn't have anymore. Especially when I was able to the topout separately immediately after, realizing I had simply not seen a good hold that would have gotten me on there if only I had done it before my actual attempt from the start. As many know, struggling on a mantle and fighting to get on the boulder sucks the energy out, and after that, my attempts from the start only went downhill, until I ended up with six flappers on my left hand alone and had to give up.
Here's the video of my best attempt yesterday and my struggle on the mantle, that I had posted on my Instagram:



I felt tired this morning, but still eager for a short climb, I went to Apremont Ouest to try "Saotoubi (assis)". Small and sharp crimps to start with, but other than that, 'flapper-friendly'.
I took the wise decision to work out all the moves and repeat the standing start first before I tried the first move. As it starts with a sharp crimp for the right hand, I didn't want to risk splitting my fingertips before I knew what to do after.
It only took me a handful of tries.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Saotoubi (assis) 7B+(7B)

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