July 13, 2024 - Had it coming.

After falling of the not very hard mantle of "Dévers et des Pas Durs (assis)" last week in Apremont Désert, I was determined to go back this morning to finish it off. With the moves still in my muscle memory, I knew I had it coming.
I warmed up doing the mantle and a few of the moves separately and sent it not even ten minutes after arriving at the boulder.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Dévers et des Pas Durs (assis) 7C(7B+)

I hadn't planned anything else, but a quick look at bleau.info made me move over to the small 'Théorie' sector on the other side of the path, where I quite easily did "La Théorie tout Court" on my first attempt. I had hoped to do the sitstart as well, but a wet key hold in the overhang prevented it. I did practice the lower moves up to the wet hold and will come back for the complete problem soon.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - La Théorie tout Court 7A

July 07, 2024 - Flapper friendly.

Yesterday I was reminded the hard way to always try a topout if possible to avoid any surprises when coming from the start of a climb. I had worked out all the moves and links of "Dévers et des Pas Durs (assis)" in Apremont Désert, and when I went or the complete ascent, cruised through the problem, but found myself struggling at the mantle. I fought and tried several things, but ended up falling off, where I shouldn't have anymore. Especially when I was able to the topout separately immediately after, realizing I had simply not seen a good hold that would have gotten me on there if only I had done it before my actual attempt from the start. As many know, struggling on a mantle and fighting to get on the boulder sucks the energy out, and after that, my attempts from the start only went downhill, until I ended up with six flappers on my left hand alone and had to give up.
Here's the video of my best attempt yesterday and my struggle on the mantle, that I had posted on my Instagram:

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A post shared by Filip Notebaert (@filipnotebaert)

I felt tired this morning, but still eager for a short climb, I went to Apremont Ouest to try "Saotoubi (assis)". Small and sharp crimps to start with, but other than that, 'flapper-friendly'.
I took the wise decision to work out all the moves and repeat the standing start first before I tried the first move. As it starts with a sharp crimp for the right hand, I didn't want to risk splitting my fingertips before I knew what to do after.
It only took me a handful of tries.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Saotoubi (assis) 7B+(7B)

July 04, 2024 - Instant classic.

I had seen "L'Ecrevisse à Pattes Blanches" in Rocher Cailleau only once many years ago. Being on the backside of the boulder of "Moules Frites", it was on the last day of the year 2015, when I did the sitstart of the latter. I didn't try it, because I vaguely remember that it was out of my league back then, or maybe it wasn't dry, or both. Being in a very isolated part of the area where I didn't return to, I had forgotten about it until I stumbled upon it again when looking for a nearby boulder to climb after dinner this evening.
With that plan, I left after dinner, and when I arrived at the boulder and inspected the problem, I didn't think I would be able to do any of the moves. Funny thought, realizing I actually did it barely half an hour later.
The problem allows for working out all the moves separately, and I took advantage of that. When I then also managed to do the mantle, I got quite confident. A handful of tries later, I made it all the way through, out of the pit and on to the boulder.
I'm pretty sure that this very nice problem would be an instant classic if it was located in the middle of some popular area. Good thing that it isn't!!

Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - L'Ecrevisse à Pattes Blanches 7B+(7B)

July 02, 2024 - Skipped a post.

Some very good (non-climbing) friends were staying in a gite nearby last weekend, and I only had a very short climb on Saturday morning, making quick work of "Pilule Amère (assis)" in La Ségognole. I didn't even bother to the time to dedicate a post to it and skipped it for once. But now here combined with another very short climb I had today after work.

Fontainebleau - La Ségognole - Pilule Amère (assis) 7A(7A+)

This evening after work, I didn't want to go far, but that doesn't leave me with very much anymore to climb something that I hadn't done yet, and is within my league for a potentially quick ascent. I therefor decided to pick a short traverse and walked straight to "Avengers" in Roche aux Sabots Est.
I took some time to work out all the moves and as soon as I knew what to do, I was able to finish it. 

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots Est - Avengers 7B(7A+)