Saturday, November 11, 2023

November 11, 2023 - Zones of silence.

With the amount of rain and we had last yesterday evening, I didn't count on good conditions nor trying anything too hard. Instead I chose to go for some silence at some remote still quite unknown small area, featuring only a handful of boulders and only of them that had my interest. The small area of Mont Aiveu is quite a walk from the small parking, but I enjoyed it whilst admiring the beauty of the forest in Autumn. The boulders of the area have nice atypical colors and seem to fit in with the season.
The only boulder that I was interested in, the one with "Peinture Rupestre?", is located on top of a small hill, offering a stunning view. Unfortunately, the bottom part under the small roof was wet, so I immediately had to rule out trying the sitstart. The standing start was dry, but the left part of the boulder is marbled and without any friction, which I hadn't expected. Even for the left heelhook it is extremely slippery. It took ma a handful of attempts to the standing start.

Fontainebleau - Mont Aiveu - Peinture Rupestre? 7A



As the sitstart was out of the question with the wet starting holds, I did work out the lowest start possible and started from the lowest dry holds I could use. Basically, a crouching start, two moves in from the sitstart. This on itself already felt like 7B in my opinion.

Fontainebleau - Mont Aiveu - Peinture Rupestre? (accroupi) 7A+(7B)



On the way back to the car, I made a small detour to find the couple of boulders of another small area called Rocher des Ventes Héron.
I was able to find the boulder with "La Dernière du Matin" quickly and it looked like this problem was the only one still possible to climb. The other lines need some rebrushing.
I warmed up my fingers again by doing the standing start, about 6C+ on its own.

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Ventes Héron - La Dernière du Matin (debout) 6C+



The (original) sitstart followed soon after.

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Ventes Héron - La Dernière du Matin 7A+

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