Sunday, November 7, 2021

November 07, 2021 - One after all.

Last Monday, Christophe Laumone gave me some good advice for "Gengis Khan" in Rocher de la Reine. We both arrived at the same time at the boulder and while he was trying the sitstart, I worked in the stand. His advice paid off and I was able to get familiar with the new method, albeit no topout yet. Christophe was able to work out the sitstart and got passed the standing start, but the powerful attempts had taken its toll and squeezed the energy out of him. Probably on his next visit, he will be able to top out and open the sistart of "Gengis Khan".
Yesterday I spent the morning in "Gengis Khan" again, and made some good progress. Despite a split in my left middle finger, I was able to perfect the moves, and got really close to topping out. I made it to the high pinch left hand, but a slip from the sloper right hand made me swing out. As long as the conditions on the bad slopers are in favor, and with Winter and the cold temperatures at the doorstep, this should go down soon.

It rained last night and everything was wet this morning. I met Pieter on the parking of Cuvier, but another drizzly rain shower made sure that everything was going to stay wet for a while. We left the crashpads in the car and made a walk to the boulders of Apremont Portes du Désert to get some ideas for his next visit.
I had to putty a wall at home in the afternoon, but noticed that everything looked much less wet and even dry at some places around the neighborhood. It was tempting to go search for some dry boulders, but the putty work was necessary, so I continued my way home to start the works. The putty work was done faster than expected and around 4pm I decided to go back to the forest in search for a dry boulder. I still had a good hour of daytime left, so it was worth a shot.
Knowing that it's a quite quickly drying boulder, I walked straight to the boulder of "Professeur Tournesol" on which Frédéric Buc had opened yet another line. A short traverse, but the looking at Frédéric's video, the moves looked pretty nice.
The boulder was not in very good condition, but dry enough to start working out the moves.  few pretty powerful moves, but the motivation was high and about half an hour later I felt relieved when topping out. Got to do one this weekend after all.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Dupont et le Professeur Tournesol 7B

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