Saturday, March 6, 2021

March 06, 2021 - Almost two.

The conditions looked very promising when I left earlier than usual this morning. It was just above freezing point, but the windshield of my car wasn't frozen nor wet. It's a sign of dry air, ideal for good conditions with this cold temperature.
I had several options to go to, but as it was still early and the sun was shining nice, I decided to try Mont Pivot first. Just like last weekend, the small roads towards the Trois Pignons parking areas were partly closed, warning for saturated parking spots. When I parked at La Ségognole, I was the only car at that time though.
It's not often that I return to the same boulder many times in a relatively short period, but I was millimeters away from doing "La Voie Active (gauche)" so many times, that it was just a matter of having just enough friction left for the last move, on which I fell so many times. As all the moves were still in my body from last time, it didn't take much of a warmup to do them all again and begin with attempts from the start.
I think it must have been my fifth or sixth session trying "La Voie Active (gauche)" and even though there was tremendous relief when I finally stuck that last move, I almost felt sad that it was done. The spot where the boulder is located is almost perfect. Luckily, by the time I was back down, I remembered that there is still  "Le Retour de l'Imparfait" left for me to do. Same as "La Voie Active (gauche)", but with a slightly easier exit on the left arete. I was tempted to try it, but decided to keep it as a reason to come back this beautiful spot.
I left the pleasant company of another climber that had come to this ever growing in popularity boulder. Or the spot in its whole.

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - La Voie Active (gauche) 7B+(7C)



Before getting back into the car, I decided to have a quick look at "Lamia-San" across "La Ségognole". This boulder was also one of the few that I had come back to countless times a couple of years ago. I had given it a rest, but Bart (Van Raaij) told me about a different method a while ago and I wanted to try it out.
I think I almost stayed for an hour, having made huge progress using part of the new method, even had the top slopey holds with both hands for a second, more than once. The skin of my fingertips had become sweaty after a while though but I didn't mind too much letting it go for the day. Almost two, but I will be going back soon.

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