Saturday, February 11, 2017

February 11, 2017 - It's all relative.

It was a cold and grey, but dry day.
I was all alone in Apremont Portes du Désert and I enjoyed it.
There were two problems in specific that I hadn't tried before and definitely wanted to try today.

The first one on my path, and my warmup, was "Extra Balle".
I could quickly do the jumpstart, keep my balance and campus the jug, reach the high sloper left hand, but couldn't (or didn't dare to) let go of my right hand to match the left on the high sloper.
I prefer a spotter for that one, so packed up and walked on to "La Colonne Plinienne", the other problem on my list for today.

On the video I saw from "La Colonne Plinienne", it looked like it would suit my style.
However the far move from the sloppy ledge to the high sloper was too huge for me.
I had to use a sharp two finger tiny crimp pocket left hand to be able to reach it.
Indeed quite my style and it didn't take me many tries to send this beautiful problem.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - La Colonne Plinienne 7B




After eleven days of forced no-climbing, I could feel the short sessions from yesterday and the day before in my body. It was a very long time ago, but I actually had quite soar muscles.
So, not really having a further plan, I decided to look at the boulders in another smaller sector of the area.

I located some boulders for future reference and ended up flashing the relatively nice 7A prow "E=MC2" (I don't know how to type a C-square with my keyboard).
Relatively soft for the grade or relatively my style.
A first relatively reachy move, slap around the prow, slap again into the relatively good crack and end with a relatively dynamic move to the top.
Some nice straight forward bouldering.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - E=MC2 7A




On my way back I briefly tried "Furtif Haut", but only got away with a flash of "Elementary (gauche)". Or maybe not.

There seems to be some confusion on how to start, and the description can be interpreted in many ways.
I looked for a way that would be near the proposed grade, but can't give it more than easy 6C+ at most.
But well, Bleau and grades, it's all relative.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - Elementary (gauche) 7A


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