Friday, February 10, 2017

February 10, 2017 - Striptease!

I took a few hours off work today but didn't have high hopes for climbing because at work, in Montereau, it snowed lightly and turned into a light drizzle by the time I was off.
The forest, that starts at barely 15 km from there, turned out to be dry, no sign of snow or any drizzle.

Somehow I had to think of "Monaco" and decided to stop at Rocher des Princes.
The ground was wet, but the boulder was perfectly dry and in unexpectedly very good condition.
I tried "Monaco" once briefly, but was never able to do the first far move and gave up quite quickly.
Now it still took me a short while to figure out the first move, but once I found my method, I could do it every time and the rest of them followed soon.
Beautiful problem!

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Princes - Monaco 7B




After a short stop at the post office of Fontainebleau, I ended up in Apremont Butte aux Dames to check out the newly opened 7B+, "Débardage".

It felt strange walking through the area.
Some organisation that I can't recall right now, has decided to restore the whole landscape from the Butte aux Dames until the Butte aux Peintres into the state it more or less was during the time that famous painters were inspired by it.
It apparently involves stripping that part of the forest from almost all of the pine trees scattered around, turning the boulders from 'covered by the trees' into 'naked in the open'.
It's a really awkward sight but at least the boulders will dry quickly now, which wasn't the case before in Apremont Butte aux Dames.

"Debardage" is somewhat hidden in a corner and too humid to give it some real tries.
Close by, "Les Baloches" was dry and I decided to give it some go's.
I spent some time in it on a hot Spring day in 2016, but couldn't stick the sloppy crack because of bleeding finger tips due loosing too much skin.
Now it only took me a handful of tries and felt like a hard 7A or soft 7A+ at most.
Certainly not the nicest problem in the area.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Les Baloches 7B


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