I am bound to the areas closest to home and I have to make quick choices and sometimes they are not the best.
A bad choice was to spend time in "Evasion du Loup".
Not sure that I did it correctly, but I followed the most logical line according to the description on bleau.info.
Direct dynamic version just right of the standard version of Piège à Loup.
What I did was dynamic and direct, just right of "Piège à Loup", but in no way close to 7A like this. 6C at most.
Strange problem that's not really worth the detour.
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Evasion du Loup 7A
The description of "La Grève des Nains (assis) says:
Sitstart below the roof of blue n°18 (without using the big holds of that problem) and exit in La Grève des Nains (red n°31).
What I used for the right hand was a sloper close to the big holds of "blue n°18" but I didn't use the big holds.
Did it help me for taking the big crimp on the left ?
Yes. I tried many times without that sloper and there was no way that I was able to reach the crimp enough to put my fingertips around it.
My feeling is that it was still around the grade.
Sitstart below the roof of blue n°18 (without using the big holds of that problem) and exit in La Grève des Nains (red n°31).
What I used for the right hand was a sloper close to the big holds of "blue n°18" but I didn't use the big holds.
Did it help me for taking the big crimp on the left ?
Yes. I tried many times without that sloper and there was no way that I was able to reach the crimp enough to put my fingertips around it.
My feeling is that it was still around the grade.
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - La Grève des Nains (assis) 7A
All this is good food for discussion, but hey, that's part of the game. Right ?
PS: it seemed that I climbed "Le Papillon" wrong and have therefore deleted the video of it.
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