I think I just felt that way because of the heat. Or simply said, maybe I just had a bad day on Wednesday.
A quick stop at Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie after work proved that my body was still ready to go and my mind was motivated.
I wanted to start with "Fatwoman", but the very bad slopers on the edge of the roof felt greasy and slippery.
I had the impression that I was never going to be able to hang on to those today, so I turned to "Pif, Paf, Pouf".
Same start and same exit as "Fatwoman" but it's what's in between that differs.
One very far move to a flake under the roof and then another very far scary move towards the edge of the roof.
My thought was that it was going to be much more difficult, but in the end you just have to dare to go for the far moves.
The first far move is very far and all comes down to good foot placement, for me at least.
The second far move requires enough guts to go for it.
The small sharp boulder underneath it is not one where you want to fall on when you miss. Luckily my old faithful Black Diamond Mondo was there to protect me but still, I needed to gather enough guts to make it.
Very far moves, but also very nice! A great and fun problem!
Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Pif, Paf, Pouf 7A(7A+)
That being done, I turned back to "Fatwoman".
With my fingers and skin warmed up, I tried the moves on the edge a couple of times and noticed that, even though still not sticky, I was able to hang on to the slopers as long I kept my body in balance.
It's a really tricky move there on the edge. Not as easy as it looks.
With my fingers and skin warmed up, I tried the moves on the edge a couple of times and noticed that, even though still not sticky, I was able to hang on to the slopers as long I kept my body in balance.
It's a really tricky move there on the edge. Not as easy as it looks.
Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Fatwoman 7A(7A+)
There was not enough time for me to try the other variations, but there was still enough left to quickly "Le Bi se Marque" 20m behind "Fatwoman".
It's a small and low vertical roof with small pockets. Very a-typical style for Bleau.
The type of problem that a gym climber will probably like a lot.
A roof with pockets. Not jugs, but fingery pockets.
I didn't quite expect it to be dry, but to my surprise the holds in the roof were.
The topout was slightly mossy and humid, but okay enough to go for it.
Ever since I live here, more than 4 years now, I have climbed in a gym only 2 times, maybe 3, but when I still lived in Belgium, I climbed in a gym at least once a week.
Maybe that's why it didn't take me many tries to do it.
I enjoyed climbing this problem a lot!
Far vertically stretched out move and taking a hard swing into campus moves up to the top.
I'm not sure what was the hardest though, the physical moves, or the execution of them.
Easier than I expected, but oh so nice.
It's a nice mini area out there.
I will go back soon to try the other harder problems, but today already, the fat lady sang.
It's a small and low vertical roof with small pockets. Very a-typical style for Bleau.
The type of problem that a gym climber will probably like a lot.
A roof with pockets. Not jugs, but fingery pockets.
I didn't quite expect it to be dry, but to my surprise the holds in the roof were.
The topout was slightly mossy and humid, but okay enough to go for it.
Ever since I live here, more than 4 years now, I have climbed in a gym only 2 times, maybe 3, but when I still lived in Belgium, I climbed in a gym at least once a week.
Maybe that's why it didn't take me many tries to do it.
I enjoyed climbing this problem a lot!
Far vertically stretched out move and taking a hard swing into campus moves up to the top.
I'm not sure what was the hardest though, the physical moves, or the execution of them.
Easier than I expected, but oh so nice.
It's a nice mini area out there.
I will go back soon to try the other harder problems, but today already, the fat lady sang.
Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Le Bi se Marque 7A+
After diner I still went to Gorge aux Châts to try "La Caravane".
A very hard first move of which I had never figured out how to do it.
The way I saw Tony (Fouchereau) do it on a video is impossible for me. Then again, he is ten times taller than me and at least ten times stronger.
I was able to find my method today though, but then a light drizzle made a stop to it. The friction was gone.
I packed up and left. Not too soon, because by the time I arrived at the car, the drizzle had turned into rain.
Still raining as I write.
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