September 12, 2016 - Immediate action.

It was a hot day today.
At work, my car was standing in the sun, and when I got in, the thermometer read 44°C in the sun.
By the time I got home, it went down to 31°C but it was clouded and without the wind it had become a sticky heat.

On my way home I was thinking about climbing somewhere close to home after diner, and Roche au Oiseaux, being only a two minute drive away, is always a good choice.
"Action Direct (assis)" was going to be my goal.

I had tried a couple of times before, but only as an in-between other problems when it was free from other climbers, which is not often the case.
On my previous tries, I never managed to come out of the roof and stand up in the wall.
It turned out that I was using a wrong method for me.
I always immediately took the big undercling with the right hand to try coming out of the roof, but always failed.

When I arrived at the boulder and opened the crashpad, I could vaguely hear small drops falling onto the leaves of the trees.
It had started to rain, so it was time for immediate action.
This time I slightly changed my method and went straight for the far small crimp above and to the right of the big undercling, and then took the big undercling with the left hand to stand up.
It went like a glove and just when I thought that I had it, I came out. I was too confident that it was over after taking the small pocket in the wall left hand.

I practiced the outclimb once and did the whole problem right after.
Just in time, because by the time I had packed up to leave, the top sloper had become completely wet.
When I arrived back at the car, I was still wondering why I had never seen that method before.

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Oiseaux - Action Directe (assis) 7A(6C+)