After I parked had the car, however, I walked straight to the "El Paso" bloc to try "Clandestino" first.
After my couple of tries I had to give up because my fingers were hurting badly and I needed to warm up in something else first.
I stayed at the same boulder and quickly repeated "El Paso Droite" for the video.
I did it on my first try. Not a flash, because I had already done it in 2011.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Envers - El Paso Droite 7A
It all went a bit too quickly to properly warm up my skin but then I noticed that there exists an easier left version of "Clandestino", obviously called "Clandestino (gauche)".
It starts at the same point as "Clandestino", but exits more directly and slightly left of the original, thus skipping the crux.
This one went down on my second try, but I was warmed up now.
It starts at the same point as "Clandestino", but exits more directly and slightly left of the original, thus skipping the crux.
This one went down on my second try, but I was warmed up now.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Envers - Clandestino (gauche) 7A
Now at least my skin felt ready for sticking the bad sloper far right for the crux of "Clandestino".
It soon became clear that for me the most difficult part of the crux was keeping the left heelhook in place for the next move.
My heel kept slipping away, up to the point that I was becoming angry. I could do the problem in 2 overlapping parts, but every time I tried from the start, that heel slipped away.
I needed to calm myself down and took a short break.
Ten minutes later I felt relaxed again and started again with a clear mind.
Two tries later it was done. Sometimes it's amazing how a mood can determine success or not.
It soon became clear that for me the most difficult part of the crux was keeping the left heelhook in place for the next move.
My heel kept slipping away, up to the point that I was becoming angry. I could do the problem in 2 overlapping parts, but every time I tried from the start, that heel slipped away.
I needed to calm myself down and took a short break.
Ten minutes later I felt relaxed again and started again with a clear mind.
Two tries later it was done. Sometimes it's amazing how a mood can determine success or not.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Envers - Clandestino 7B
I still tried some other problems without success and also "Le Trône de Fer", but that one was a little bit too exposed with a small boulder right underneath the quite high mantle and I didn't dare to give it all in the end. Not alone, not without a spotter.
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