Chance enough for my body to have a good rest, and I could feel it.
Someone notified me that the actual start of "Fatwoman" is with the big hold a little more left, adding a far move to the right to it.
As it is only a 5 minute walk and on the way home from work, I stopped to do "Fatwoman" with the correct start.
It does indeed add a big move, but it doesn't add that much to the difficulty.
For me the difficulty is on the edge of the roof.
I did it quickly.
Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Fatwoman 7A(7A+)
Her little sister, "Fatwoman light" went down on my flash attempt.
Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Fatwoman light 6C(6C+)
With the time I had left, I figured out a very nice but not so logical variation.
Standstart with both hands on the flake of "Pif, Paf, Pouf", dyno to the edge of the roof, traverse to the right on the edge of the roof up to the big hold and exit in "Fatwoman light".
Not that easy to come down to the jug. Had fun with it though.
I call it "Pafwoman Light" and the grade will be something around 7A+(7A).
Let's see if it will be added to bleau.info, I sent the details though.
Standstart with both hands on the flake of "Pif, Paf, Pouf", dyno to the edge of the roof, traverse to the right on the edge of the roof up to the big hold and exit in "Fatwoman light".
Not that easy to come down to the jug. Had fun with it though.
I call it "Pafwoman Light" and the grade will be something around 7A+(7A).
Let's see if it will be added to bleau.info, I sent the details though.
Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Pafwoman Light 7A+(7A)
For my after dinner session, I went to Gorge aux Châts for another correction.
It turned out after all that "Double Jeu-té" does dyno from the flat hold straight to the top.
Some confusion happened with the description.
But anyway, it turned out that there was interest in the line, so it was decided to create a separate page for it on bleau.info, it's called "Le Jeu-Té Diagonal".
That means that I still have to do "Double Jeu-té", so I went there to try it.
Made some good jumps, but I still lack some distance. It still feels like miles away.
On my way to try "La Caravane" again, I stopped and looked at "La Ritournelle".
A small roof boulder on which I had already done "Humérus Clausus" in 2012.
It took my attention and decided to try "La Ritournelle" instead.
It has some hard physical moves to start, followed by a huge totally stretched out move to the left arete and then tops out in the slab above.
I wondered why I never tried this before. It's a very nice problem!
It turned out after all that "Double Jeu-té" does dyno from the flat hold straight to the top.
Some confusion happened with the description.
But anyway, it turned out that there was interest in the line, so it was decided to create a separate page for it on bleau.info, it's called "Le Jeu-Té Diagonal".
That means that I still have to do "Double Jeu-té", so I went there to try it.
Made some good jumps, but I still lack some distance. It still feels like miles away.
On my way to try "La Caravane" again, I stopped and looked at "La Ritournelle".
A small roof boulder on which I had already done "Humérus Clausus" in 2012.
It took my attention and decided to try "La Ritournelle" instead.
It has some hard physical moves to start, followed by a huge totally stretched out move to the left arete and then tops out in the slab above.
I wondered why I never tried this before. It's a very nice problem!
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - La Ritournelle 7A+(7A)
No comments:
Post a Comment