My mind was set on two options. Either try to repeat "Le Carnage" for the video, or finally try "Pince-Mi, Pince-Moi". All depended on what would be free from other climbers.
A little hour passes quickly and I certainly didn't want to loose time waiting for my turn.
To my surprise, despite the considerable amount of cars on the parking, both were available.
After a short dilemma, I chose "Pince-Mi, Pince-Moi". I had already done "Le Carnage" in 2011, so something new would be nicer.
I'm glad I picked "Pince-Mi, Pince-Moi" because already after my try, I felt that this was something for me.
Barely 15 minutes later it was already done.
Beautiful problem, with a hard and desperate last move. Slap away!
Fontainebleau - Cuvier - Pince-Mi, Pince-Moi 7B+(7B)
Having done "Pince-Mi, Pince-Moi" so quickly, and as "Le Carnage" was still available, I moved everything over and pressed record.
Already for a long time I wanted to have this on video. One of the ultra classics of Bleau and with it's currently 377 registered repetitions on bleau.info, one of the most repeated problems of its grade in the forest.
I still remember the fight with it 5 years ago. It came unexpected when I had the 'ball' near the top, and I feared so much to still fall off after, that a loud scream of relief could be heard in the whole area.
Today I was calm and confident, but not too confident neither. Being too confident makes me make stupid mistakes.
It did take me longer than the previous problem, but I was able to climb very steadily to the top again.
Very glad to have this ultra classic on video!
Already for a long time I wanted to have this on video. One of the ultra classics of Bleau and with it's currently 377 registered repetitions on bleau.info, one of the most repeated problems of its grade in the forest.
I still remember the fight with it 5 years ago. It came unexpected when I had the 'ball' near the top, and I feared so much to still fall off after, that a loud scream of relief could be heard in the whole area.
Today I was calm and confident, but not too confident neither. Being too confident makes me make stupid mistakes.
It did take me longer than the previous problem, but I was able to climb very steadily to the top again.
Very glad to have this ultra classic on video!
Fontainebleau - Cuvier - Le Carnage 7B+
After dinner I went to the parking of Le Croix St. Jérôme to again try "Squeeze Me" at only 50m from it.
Both the stand and the sitstart were opened by Ivan and now graded respectively 6C and 6C+.
Already a couple of short sessions, and even today, still no luck. The standstart alone already feels harder than a lot of 7A's in the forest.
Ivan, I don't know what you ate that day, but I want it too!
At least I was treated with a beautiful sunset ove the village where I live, Auvers (Noisy-sur-Ecole).
Sunset over Auvers, Noisy-sur-Ecole.
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