February 09, 2020 - Gone with the wind.

The streets were still wet from yesterday evening's rain when waking up this morning, but a hard stormy wind was gushing, so Pieter and I decided to go to Mont Simonet and try our chances there.
We arrived there quite early and even though the boulders on the top of the hill were dry, the others below or on the flank needed some more time, depending on how much wind they got.
On top of the hill, the most logical choice for warming up was on the "Pitt Boule" boulder, on which I repeated the classic "Pitt Boule" on my second attempt, immediately followed by Pieter.
As I already a video of "Pitt Boule", I didn't bother making a new one, but did take out the camera when we started trying the left version, "Pitt Boule (gauche)". It took a while before we found a method that worked, but once figured out, we both sent with quite some ease.

Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Pitt Boule (gauche) 7A(6C+)

Same counted for the right version, "Pitt Boule (droite)".
It took a while, but as soon as Pieter showed me how to get up, I followed right after him. All in all, this felt rather like a soft 7B at most.

Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Pitt Boule (droite) 7B+(7C)

In the meantime, the blazing wind had blown most of the "Duke Nukem" boulder, near the bottom of the hill, dry, so we moved over to that one with the idea of trying "Poignée d'Amour".
Unfortunately, it seems that the starting hold for the left hand has broken off, and even if a complete sitstart will still be possible, this has become much, much harder than the 7B that it was supposed to be. It was too hard for us at that moment, so we contented ourselves with doing a crouching start, keeping the starting holds low in the crack, forcing you to make a first quite hard move. All in all, 7A according to me if the conditions are dryer, 7A+ according to Pieter.

Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Poignée d'Amour (accroupi) 7A(7A+)

To finish, Pieter wanted to try the beautiful, but very hard "Altération" on the other side of the boulder.
I had tried that one already about two years ago, but ended up thinking that it was too morpho and impossible for me. However, with the motivation from Pieter, who ended up showing me how the crux was done, I unexpectedly managed to top this beauty too.
Pieter came really close, but lacked remaining energy to make to the end and will have to come back for it.

Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Altération 7B(7A+)

February 08, 2020 - Extra time.

The rain for this weekend was predicted to start only late afternoon, so Pieter took the chance and drove over from Belgium to take advantage from the current good conditions.
We decided to go for open options and went to Rocher du Potala as soon as we were both up and ready to go.
Starting with "Pierre Ponce", of which I was able to work out all the moves now, but the skin on the back of my hand two fingers was so worn and bloody that I had to let go for the day. Pieter also made some really nice attempts and worked it until after the first crux move, but his hands were suffering too much too.

Moving over to the impressive boulder of "Le Surplomb de la Mée", we started working in "La Putain du Diable", which wasn't in as good conditions as the other boulders, but after some tries, and an cold breeze, the holds dried out more. It was at least enough for me to make my way to the top of this magnificent boulder.
No matter what problem, it just felt great to finally top something on that boulder.
Pieter got close, and is definitely able to finish this beauty too, but needs higher energy levels.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Potala - La Putain du Diable 7C(7B+)

In the meantime, it was already late afternoon, but as there was still no rain in sight, we enjoyed the extra time on that boulder.
I flashed "La Diagonale de la Mémée", but had to admit that it used up the last of my energy.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Potala - La Diagonale de la Mémée 7A

It has rained this evening and everything is wet as I write, but there is hard wind forecasted for tomorrow, so I hope we can still add some to the extra time.

February 07, 2020 - 100% Pur Jus.

The weather forecast for yesterday and today looked like the conditions were going to be very good. Predicting rain for the weekend though, I didn't want to miss out again and was able to take this afternoon off work.

First thing on my mind to try, was "100% Pur Jus" in Apremont Bizons. With a sloper that needs good conditions, especially being on the North side of the boulder, and that's exactly what was missing when I tried it for the first time two weeks ago. I was able to do the crux moves then and felt quite confident that with good conditions, a send would be feasible.
Still knowing the moves and with that sloper in excellent condition, I made it on my first attempt of the day.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Bizons - 100% Pur Jus 7C

I should have gotten more out of this afternoon, but I guess I chose the wrong problems afterwards. At least I had a good training.

January 26, 2020 - No pot of gold.

Same bad conditions as yesterday, and probably even worse, but I tried my chances close to home, and went to Cul de Chien.
Kind of a similar story as yesterday, only topped the warmup problem, but this time, I flashed it with relative ease in humid conditions.
Opened recently and proposed as 7A+, but I can't make more than a 6C+ out of "Chimney Pot".

Fontainebleau - Cul de Chien - Chimney Pot 7A+

I had never tried the beauty "Eclipse" and despite the humidity and condensed roof, was able to work the moves up to the crack, but that one was too damp to pull hard on it without slipping. Still not my luck.

January 25, 2020 - Not my luck.

From Monday to Thursday, the conditions were just perfect. Cold with a blue sky and a breeze from the East make a perfect recipe for best conditions.
Sadly enough, it was just not my luck as I had too much going on at work at the same time and had a deadline to make. There was no room to take a few hours off work during the day and get my share of conditions that are exceptional.
The 8C's and 8B's were being sent like flies on a turd, but I didn't even come close to touching any sandstone, it was not my luck.
Yesterday though, the temperature started rising again and the breeze was gone; which resulted in the air humidity going up to 100%, making the sandstone and, causing it to lose the best friction.

This morning was hopeful when I parked in Le Vaudoué and set off to Rocher Fin, stopping briefly at Rocher de Diplodocus to get a sense of  how it felt. It weren't the good conditions from earlier this week, but the first impression was not too bad.
The harder problems that I wanted to try in Rocher Fin felt still too damp, but with "Hackebärli Fin" in the isolated North part of the sector, I had found myself a nice and fun warmup.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Hackebärli Fin 7A

With the rising temperature, there the nightly frost started melting though and gave the boulders an even more damp feeling. Slopers that feel sticky at first became fast humid, leaving dark traces where the hand came in contact with them.

"El Kift" and "La Micholeg (assis)" felt too slippery after a while, so I left in search for some more luck, but unfortunately, it was not mine and the warmup stayed remained my only top for the day.

January 12, 2020 - Movement.

It was cold and little humid this morning, but sun was out and the weather looked promising. However, by the time I arrived at J.A. Martin after doing some household, light grey clouds had taken over and the sun couldn't get through. It didn't bother me much, as long as it didn't rain.
I didn't have any particular problem in mind that I wanted to try, but was more focused on trying some of the many new lines published recently.
Not everything was dry enough, but "Le Syndrome de Kessler" was, and I felt like trying the 7A "Le Syndrome de Kessler (du bas)".
I hadn't watched the video of it online, but according to what I remembered, it started from the ground with crimps; not from the small boulder in front of it. Apparently, it does start sitting on the small boulder, in the middle of the wall and then goes to the right arete.
I thus renamed the video to "Le Syndrome de Kessler (du sol)", of which the grade will be about the same.

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - Le Syndrome de Kessler (du sol) 7A

On the boulder directly above "Le Syndrome de Kessler", the traverse "SolarStratose" was completely dry.
Normally I wouldn't immediately go trying a traverse, but this line looks so natural and logical to follow that it hardly feels like climbing a traverse.
A very nice line.

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - SolarStratose 7A+

Even less, I would start trying a traverse that has a "rallongé" to it, an extended version, but here also, besides my arms being totally pumped on the top, I really liked doing those moves.

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - SolarStratose (rallongé) 7B+

January 11, 2020 - What's in a name?

Recently, a new boulder named "Bleautiful" in Cuvier Merveille had been published on bleau.info, and the name alone already spoke to my imagination.
Finally, after being patient for weeks, the conditions were in favor and I left to Cuvier Merveille, leaving several options open.
I couldn't immediately find the boulder, which looks to be quite hidden according to the picture on bleau.info, so I went to the beautiful and classical "Bleau's Art" boulder first. I wanted to finish its right variation, "Tina , Hier Kommt die Sahne"; which basically is German for "Tina, here comes the cream". A ridiculous name that was probably more funny when you were there when it was chosen, but it's such a beautiful line!

I kept on sliding off the slopers, but with each attempt, I got closer, so I gave it some time and sent it on a rather unexpected moment.
Great boulder, great line!

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Merveille - Tina, Hier Kommt die Sahne 7B+

After a short break, I looked for "Bleautiful" again and found it well hidden in a stunningly beautiful small chaos of green mossy boulders.

Bleau is beautiful!!

Despite having been published only a few days ago, the boulder must have been opened quite a bit before. The slopey topout was covered with needles and there I wiped them, it left a big wet spot.

Patience helped and I managed to top this beauty on my third attempt. The much harder sitstart had become mossy again though. After all, it does start in quite a humid pit.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Merveille - Bleautiful 7A

I decided to walk back using the blue path that crosses Cuvier Rempart and made a first stop at "Vu".
Tried this one a few times already, but only needed two attempt to tick it off this time. Albeit not very elegantly.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Rempart - Vu 7B

Still had a few good attempts in "Manolo" to end with, but will need to come back for it. Some day.