Sunday, January 26, 2025

January 26, 2025 - Magical session.

Yesterday when I was walking back to the car from "Abracadabaffe", in the rain, I didn't want to make myself any illusions and assumed that the earliest I would be able to go back to try the other lines, was going to be next week. It still rained a lot yesterday, but there was quite some wind during the night, and low and behold, it looked pretty dry outside this morning, with new rain forecasted in the afternoon. I took the chance and went back to the boulder of "Abracadabaffe".
This time, even the holds of the sitstart were dry, and the conditions felt good. I warmed up practicing the moves of "Abracadaréta", and mainly the mantle for the topout. Once I got it figured out, I immediately sent it after turning on the camera.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Abracadaréta 7A+



After that, my focus went to the sitstart of "Abracadabaffe", only to find out that it is really hard, much harder than it looks, especially with the feet so far in the back. I couldn't even lift my butt from off the ground. I almost concluded it would be too hard, but with no other problems around in the immediate surroundings, I made the decision to stay and just see if somehow I would be able to make slight progress. At that moment, lifting my butt off the ground already was a goal on itself.
After a short while, I magically reached that goal, but doing a next move seemed like the next impossibility. Again, I stuck with it and again started making slow, but steady progress. When I finally stuck the next move, I decided it was time for some real attempts. Only a handful of attempts later, I made my way to the top and almost couldn't believe it. Great problem!

Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Abracadabaffe (assis) 7C



As I knew that I could do the first part, it seemed logical to also try "Abracadaréta (assis)". I knew that if I would be able to do the first few moves again, that I would be able to send the whole thing. Which is what happened quite soon after.
The slight foot stroke near the end didn't help me in any way, form or fashion, so I'm taking it. I'm sure the 'dab police' will have a blast again, but I don't care. To me it felt and will always feel like a magical session.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Abracadaréta (assis) 7B+(7B)

No comments:

Post a Comment