As I had a two week vacation, I decided to just publish one post for the whole period, just like my previous vacation.
As it turned though, the vacation has been quite disappointing climbing and weather wise. I had set myself the goal to do "Fourmis Rouges", but the besides two good sessions, the other were overrules by bad and frustrating conditions.
Lot of fog, drizzle, rain, and humidity.
Sunday, 22nd of December, 2024
Yesterday, everything was soaking wet due to rain and even more due to condensation. In the late afternoon up to this morning, there was even more rain, but also a hard wind. I decided to look for dry boulders on higher ground, and found a good one on the top of the hill of Rocher de la Cathédrale.
Even though I tried it before, I had never been able to the first big move of "Le Gnou" or "Coup de Phil (assis)", but somehow, today it worked out pretty well and I was able to make a rather quick ascent of "Coup de Phil (assis)". "Le Gnou" on the other hand, didn't work out. Seems that the short traverse to the right seems to be the crux and I couldn't get passed it. Anyway, given the bad weather forecast for today, I was happy to have been able to climb at all.
For some time, thinking years, I kind of secretly had this small dream of climbing one of the famous Big 5 in Cuvier Rempart. It always looked intimidating and scary at some point, but for some reason, I had been playing with the idea to try "Fourmis Rouges". Today, I asked my oldest son to join me to help me carry an extra crashpad and be there for a spot, so that thought finally became a reality.
I didn't finish "Fourmis Rouges" today after almost two hours of trying, but I was able to build up a great amount of confidence, and especially motivation to come back for it soon. I made some quite good attempts, and even though it very much sounds like an excuse, the conditions didn't feel exactly right. I made good progress though and feel like I'm close to a send, so I'm eager to return as soon as I have grown back some skin and conditions are favorable.
Below, a video of a handful of my best attempts today.
Friday, December 27th, 2024
After another couple of really bad weather with no climbing possible, it was finally sunny yesterday, but unfortunately, the crack of "Fourmis Rouges" was still wet, making the problem impossible.
Slightly disappointed, I did have some fun with Olaf (Deppe) and Markus (Neher).
I was going to join them today at Mont Blanc, but when I saw how good the weather was, I couldn't resist and decided to go have a look "Fourmis Rouges". I was very pleasantly surprised that the crack was now dry and the conditions even felt really good. Instead of joining Olaf, Markus and their girlfriend/wife, I spent three another three hours trying "Fourmis Rouges". Still didn't send it,but was quite happy with the session as I had made good progress, making it two moves further several times. Three hours of trying had taken its toll though and I couldn't get to the top.
It was extremely cold with a lot of humidity in the air and even some light drizzle now and then.
Had a good time though, with the good company of Olaf (Deppe), Markus (Neher) and wife Kathy, and Lars (Haasis) and wife Simi.
Not very much possible due to the humidity, but "Hot Spring" just went, even though it didn't feel as hot as it would make one think in this weather.
The forecasted wind for today was promising, but rising temperatures were concerning. When I left home in the morning, it all looked great, but the closer I got to Cuvier Rempart, the more foggy and I let go of most of the hope for topping "Fourmis Rouges" today.
Olaf (Deppe) had other important priorities today, but Lars (Haasis) and Simi were there. It was fun trying "Fourmis Rouges", but the conditions on the boulder were not good enough and the session was worse than the last good one I had a week before, in the sun.
I did, however, get a consolidation prize with a fairly quick ascent of "Ridicule", preceded by Lars doing this small but fun problem.
Tomorrow I'm leaving to Belgium for some family visits until Sunday, so I guess today was the last session of the horrible (weather-wise) Christmas vacation.
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