This morning looked quite different and with high hopes, I left for Apremont Butte aux Dames, eager to try the quite new "Omotenashi". Obviously, the boulder low down the hill looked humid, but the ones higher up the hill and quite in the open were perfectly dry and the conditions even felt very good. Looking back at it now, I think the conditions on "Omotenashi" could hardly be any better.
After checking it the moves, it was quite clear that the hardest part is in the first couple of moves. I warmed up doing the topout and felt confident about doing the topout again if I would get there from the start.
The description of the problem mentions that it starts with the right hand on the small undercling, and the left hand just above on an oblique crimp. Just imagining that start looked like it was going to be a very awkward position for doing the far move to the sloper on the left. Keeping it more logical, I first worked out the moves with a more logical and more obvious unonventional start, being with the left hand on the undercling and the right on the crimp. As soon as I got that start worked out, I immediately sent it when turning on the camera.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Omotenashi (sans convention) 7B+
With respect to the first ascensionist, I then started working on the original conventional start. It took me a bit longer get the awkward movement in my body, but slowly and steadily, I got the hang of it and started sticking the move. A couple of failures later, I managed to also do the conventional way of "Omotenashi".
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Omotenashi 7B+(7C)
To finish the session, I moved up towards the problem of blue n°36, of which a sitstart was opened recently as well.
Just by looking at it, I immediately seemed to know what to do, but executing it all, wasn't so immediate.
All in all, I needed a handful of attempts to add "Point d'Exclamation (assis)" to the done list. Quite nice moves, definitely worth the effort.
Just by looking at it, I immediately seemed to know what to do, but executing it all, wasn't so immediate.
All in all, I needed a handful of attempts to add "Point d'Exclamation (assis)" to the done list. Quite nice moves, definitely worth the effort.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Point d'Exclamation (assis) 7A+(7A)
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