Until two weeks ago, I had passed by "Les Dents Bleues" in Cuisinière Carnage two times. The first time, many years ago, I didn't even bother trying it, because it looked too hard. The second time, I briefly tried it, but couldn't even do the first move and the crimp under the overhang was humid anyway. Two weeks ago, though, the day after I did "Djembé", I went with the intention to dedicate some real time on it, despite that my tail bone was hurting really bad after falling on it on one of attempts on "Djembé". Just walking already hurt and somehow I knew in advance that the sitstart of "Les Dents Bleues" would really pose me a lot of trouble. Nevertheless, I went anyway, even if would mean just trying the moves. It turned that that it indeed wasn't more than that. I was able to do the moves separately, even the sitstart, with a lot of pain, but when I started a real attempt for the full problem, I slipped of a sloper and fell on my behind on the crashpad, which hurt my tail bone extremely hard. The pain being unbearable, I was forced to leave it behind, but was determined to come back for it as soon as my tail bone didn't hurt anymore.
I went back this morning, before the heat, and knowing that "Les Dents Bleues would still be nicely in the shade. Still remembering the moves and without pain on my tail bone with every move, I was able to do them quickly and started trying real attempts. Much quicker than I had anticipated, I made my way to the top of this beauty. A five star problem if you ask me, and a true pleasure to climb.
Fontainebleau - Cuisinière Carnage - Les Dents Bleues 7B+(7B)
Right before it got full sun on it, I was also able to make a quick ascent of "La Virgule" on my way back.
Fontainebleau - Cuisinière Carnage - La Virgule 7A+
No comments:
Post a Comment