Sunday, August 18, 2024

August 18, 2024 - The real thing.

Early Spring, with no detailed information about the problem, I thought I did "Pleine Prouesse", thinking it was way easier than the proposed grade of 7B+(7C). Not long after though, I was given detailed information and the description updated on bleau.info, and it turned out to be a fairly eliminate problem, forcing you to only use a quite bad slopey crimp in the prow, followed by two more hard and sketchy moves.
I immediately went back to try the real thing and quickly discovered that the move to the crimp was very reachy and the move that followed seemed nearly impossible. After spending a long session, I hadn't even been able to do the crux move separately. The session after that, about a week later, I still hadn't been able to figure it out and even played with the thought that it might even be too hard for me, or too morpho.
It took a while before I went back for a third session, but two weeks ago, after having done "Mine de Rien (assis))", I was finally able to do the crux and even almost did the move after it. I believed in it again and wanted to go back soon.
As I was visiting family and friends in Belgium from Thursday until this morning, the first chance I had, was this afternoon, after a long four hour drive. Having driven for half a day and not having slept in my own bed, which made me feel tired. Nevertheless, I went back to "Pleine Prouesse" and, given the condition I was in, didn't set any expectation in actually doing the problem. It went surprisingly well though and despite making a bad fall, I suddenly climbed my way to the top of this eliminate, yet logical and beautiful problem.

Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Pleine Prouesse 7B+(7C)

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