August 10, 2024 - Loading barefoot: 50%.

Since I managed to do all the moves of "Djembé" at the beginning of my vacation a couple of weeks ago, it kept lingering in my head, but I was forced to wait for the splits in my fingers to heal. As I started work again last Monday, there was finally some time for the skin to heal and grow back and I paid special attention to and took good care of the splits. Also, there was time to think about what I could do better to get a higher succeed percentage on the crux move of "Djembé", the one where the left foot goes into a pocket and the left hand has to do a long move to a high slopey three finger pocket. Even though I did that move a few times then, it had to be more consistent. I was thinking that maybe doing that move with the left foot barefoot, I might be able to push up and at the same time use my big toe to grab the pocket and pull inwards so my body would stay closer to the boulder. It was a theory that I was going to put to the test today, so I went back this morning with high hopes.
I usually don't like being barefoot, and rather being a socks person, I normally even climb with socks. It's a habit.
Arriving at the boulder, I warmed up starting with the pocket left hand, the low crimp right hand, did a dynamic campus move to the jug far right and topped out. I could do this section every time that way. 
I took off my left shoe and sock and tried the crux move separately and was amazed by how better and more controlled it felt. It was great to notice that what I had been thinking about, actually worked really well. Now I only had to get used to doing the first move with the left foot barefoot. This was hard at first, but as soon I got used to smearing the naked big toe for the first move, it went nearly every time.
When I got to the high pocket left hand though being barefoot left, my position was slightly different for the dynamic move and surprisingly, I completely missed it and fell on the small boulders behind me. When the exact same thing happened a second time, I fell with my tailbone on one of the small boulders, which really hurt. I realized that the dynamic move was no longer for granted and knew I had to really focus more when I got there.
When I got to the point for doing the dynamic move again and thought that I wasn't going to let that happen again, I focused hard and put in some extra effort. I grabbed the jug and held on for dear life. A shout of relief couldn't be suppressed as soon as I got it.
Doing "Djembé" almost felt like a dream come true. It's one of those boulders that, when I saw it for the first time about ten years ago, I knew I wanted to do one day. One that I had tried, given up hope on, gained hope again and finally got it. Really glad with this beauty!!

Fontainebleau - Côtes de Courances - Djembé 7C(7B+)