Saturday, January 2, 2021

January 02, 2021 - Last goes first.

I had tried "Manolo", in Cuvier Rempart, a few times over the past couple of years, but as I don't go very often to that area, I had never made it a real project until three days ago, back in 2020. I was already able to do most of the moves and make some good link-ups, but never found a way to do the crux comfortably enough to do this short powerful problem in one piece. 
It was only three days ago, back in 2020, that I found a new method that suited me more, but the process of working out and trying the whole line over and over took a few hours and I was completely out of  power at the somewhat humid top slopers. I knew that I could send this if I had more power left and in dry conditions. The last attempt of 2020 (which can be seen in the video), I fell off the top slopers again and had to throw in the towel.

Due to bad conditions, I didn't climb the two following days, but today looked promising according to my weather app. I left home in Noisy-sur-Ecole with a sunny blue sky, but just passed the Franchard areas, it started to get foggy. A fog that got denser the further I drove toward Cuvier. To my big but pleasant surprise though, I could see hillside of Cuvier Rempart bathing in the sun while driving down the hill on the N7 towards Barbizon. Almost miraculously the Rempart area was the only area where the sun was able to reach. Even the classical area of Cuvier 100m further was covered with a light fog.

The conditions on "Manolo" were perfect. I couldn't have wished for any better than they were this morning when I arrived. It was very promising, which made me a bit nervous. I feared that my fingers might sweat too much after loosing skin due to many attempts. I still had the sequence in my head though, so I quickly tried the topout from a standing start to warm up. I did it without hesitation from my first try, which confirmed the good conditions. There was friction, and a lot of it. 
My first attempt from the start,,which wasn't a too bad attempt, followed immediately after the extremely short warm up, but failed due to bad heel placement. The attempt after that, I made it through to the end, and could tick off "Manaolo" as my first boulder of 2021.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Rempart - Manolo 7C



It seemed that it was a good thing to have done "Manolo" so quickly this morning, because barely half an hour later when I was playing around in "Noir Désir", the fog sort of slid down the hill, blocking the sun and making the air and conditions more humid again. I decided to leave and stop at Justice de Noisy close to home on my way back.
The fog had become so dense that I had to turn on my car's fog lights by the time I reached Barbizon. Back home in Justice de Noisy, the sun was shining so hard that I was able to try "Stargate (direct)" in a T-shirt. Didn't finish it yet though.


Cold, but a nice blue and sunny sky in Justice de Noisy.

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