Saturday, January 9, 2021

January 09, 2021 - Coming prepared.

As I wrote in my previous post, I still tried "Stargate (direct)" after having done "Manolo" last week, but despite finding a suitable method, I wasn't able to finish it then. With freezing temperatures and dry weather this morning, the conditions looked looked promising and I headed back to Justice de Noisy, looking forward to the sunny spot where "Stargate" always bathes in to.
With the moves and method that I worked out last week still in my head and seemingly still present in my muscle memory, I came very close to sending "Stargate (direct)" on my first attempt today, until part of the tiny crimp for the last move decided to break. I fell hard, but luckily I came prepared. Remembering the falls I made when I tried "Stargate" before the second lockdown, I carried two crashpads. Both of them served their purpose very well.
It was only a very small piece of the crimp that broke off, but I did use that tiny piece with the thumb of my right hand a lot to be able to reach high enough left hand and grab the jug near the top left hand. I definitely used it enough for it to break under the pressure. It turned out even, that I depended on that thumb crimp enough that I wasn't able to do it anymore. All that was left of the crimp right hand, was a tiny sharp edge that barely fit the tip of my index finger and half of my middle. I had to change my method and find another way to get into position for the last move.
It wasn't easy to find another method, and even though there was only a slight change, it still felt uncertain. Thanks to the many tries, I was able to cruise through the first part enough times to find a lucky moment where I could pull off the second until the jug and on to the top of the boulder.
Another very nice problem with great moves, opened by Tony Fouchereau and Thierry Vasseur!

Boulder 7 on the topo on bleau.info: Justice de Noisy - Justice de Noisy (bleau.info)

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Stargate (direct) 7B+

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