Sunday, September 1, 2019

September 01, 2019 - Toework.

Despite having climbed quite hard yesterday, Pieter had a remarkably good second day, which we spent in the beautiful and calm area of La Fontaine Saint-Bernard.
Not very much problems there, but Olivier Joanon yesterday mentioned some new lines, such as "Banzaï!" that he opened there and from what I had seen on his video, it definitely looked like it merited a visit.

We warmed up in "Joie (assis)" and "Joie (droite assis)", respectively 7A and 7A+, which I both repeated on my first try and even though Pieter needed some more attempts and work out a different method, he also was able to top both relatively quick.
Jean-Pierre (Roudneff) had joined us for a short while in the meantime, also on the lookout for "Banzaï!" that he published on bleau.info yesterday. He was able to give us some good indications so we more or less walked straight to it.

It's a small boulder hidden between others, the boulder of "Banzaï!", but that nose covered with typical Bleau-like features, just begs to climbed on.
It didn't take me very long and it felt more towards 7B to me, but my long arms definitely were in my advantage here. Also toehook skills are required, something that Pieter had to find out the hard way again today. He couldn't work his way through.

Fontainebleau - La Fontaine Saint-Bernard - Banzaï! 7B+




On the same boulder, same start but staying left at the start, Olivier also opened "Ce Nez, ce Cap...", a nice little 7A that I did on my second attempt, followed by Pieter not long after.

Fontainebleau - La Fontaine Saint-Bernard - Ce Nez, ce Cap... 7A




Nearing the end of the session, we spent the time locating some of the other boulders and decided to finish with "Le Régaliste". A problem where a toehook and flexibility are key to success, which are exactly Pieter's weaknesses.
Even though I had to pull quite hard, I made it on my second attempt without too much problems.
Pieter on the other hand, used the occasion to train his weaknesses and I would lie if I would say that he didn't make any progress.

Fontainebleau - La Fontaine Saint-Bernard - Le Régaliste 7A


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