Friday, January 4, 2019

January 04, 2019 - Just working out.

I doubted for a while before I decided to publish the below video and even name and grade it.
It was after work late this afternoon and I only had a big half an hour of enough daylight left to work out the moves of "L'Étoile Noire (assis)".
The big key hold under the roof still made made my fingertips humid, but I did manage to work out those moves enough to have an idea on how to move and even did most of them separately.
There are two hard crux moves under the roof before coming into the position where I am at the start of the video.
What follows is another hard crux move, which took me quite some before I was able to make that one. A very precise far dynamic move, much further than I had expected to be honest.
Anyway, when I was working out that dynamic precision move to the pinch, I decided to climb on and topped out when I finally stuck it.

I definitely didn't open a new variation or anything close to it, but I thought that this extra hard move to come into the original standing start felt so sweet that I decided to keep the video. For myself, but also to share with anyone who feels like watching it.
If "L'Étoile Noire" would have been opened with that start, then I think the grade would probably be about 7B.
I will not send this to any website to publish it or make it supposedly official, but if any picks this up and decides that it's worth it, then why not. It's all about having fun and working out anyway. Or at least a lot.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - L'Étoile Noire (accroupi) 7B




Have fun!

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