It's not my favourite area because of the sand and the long walk, but it was one of my best chances to find dry boulders and I only had time in the morning.
Besides, there is always still something left to do.
I have been trying "Le Nain Vert Sait" on my nearly every visit to Rocher Fin, but somehow never found the correct balance to make the final move.
Now it was no different until I decided to change my method by matching both hands on the bad sloper and placing the right foot really high.
From there it was just a matter of pulling myself over my tipping point and catching the top sloper before losing balance again.
It sounds simple, but believe me, it didn't feel like it.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Le Nain Vert Sait 7A+(7A)
Ever since the time I arrived in the area this morning, it hadn't stopped raining. Well, not really raining, but all the time, drops of rain were dripping with an occasional break of a couple of minutes in between.
I even had to find shelter at a certain point. Not for long, but long enough for the boulders to be in even worse conditions than before.
There went my chances for trying "Bull Dog (assis)". I tried it briefly, could easily get passed the standing start, but the slopey arete was way too slippery.
At least I knew that the well known "Guerre et Paix" boulder in the centre of the area would be dry.
I tried it only once, many years ago upon my first visit of Rocher Fin, but fell off the mantle.
Most of the other times I was here, the popular problem was either already taken, or I had different priorities.
Having not many other options and not seen another single person since I left the parking, I went for it.
My first try was miserable.
I had made the same mistake by immediately starting, cruising my way through the problem, but not checking my options for the difficult topout.
After carefully looking for another method, I found one, but still it wasn't easy.
Glad to tick this classic off.
I even had to find shelter at a certain point. Not for long, but long enough for the boulders to be in even worse conditions than before.
There went my chances for trying "Bull Dog (assis)". I tried it briefly, could easily get passed the standing start, but the slopey arete was way too slippery.
At least I knew that the well known "Guerre et Paix" boulder in the centre of the area would be dry.
I tried it only once, many years ago upon my first visit of Rocher Fin, but fell off the mantle.
Most of the other times I was here, the popular problem was either already taken, or I had different priorities.
Having not many other options and not seen another single person since I left the parking, I went for it.
My first try was miserable.
I had made the same mistake by immediately starting, cruising my way through the problem, but not checking my options for the difficult topout.
After carefully looking for another method, I found one, but still it wasn't easy.
Glad to tick this classic off.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Guerre et Paix 7A
The holds under the roof of "Chevalier Errant" were dry, but the rest of it felt damp.
As I didn't feel like looking for another problem, not knowing in what condition it would be, I gave it a try anyway.
Also here the crux is at the end and I came out of it way too many times.
It was taking chunks out of my energy reserves, but I persisted until I finally made it. Not an attempt too soon, I felt exhausted.
"Chevalier Errant" is a great line with a very tricky crux at the end.
My favourite line in that small roof!
As I didn't feel like looking for another problem, not knowing in what condition it would be, I gave it a try anyway.
Also here the crux is at the end and I came out of it way too many times.
It was taking chunks out of my energy reserves, but I persisted until I finally made it. Not an attempt too soon, I felt exhausted.
"Chevalier Errant" is a great line with a very tricky crux at the end.
My favourite line in that small roof!
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Chevalier Errant 7B
I have been working a lot in the garden since I'm back from Biarritz.
My body can feel it and is exhausted.
Every problem today felt like I was at war, but each time I found peace in the end.
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